PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr Diesel Engine Page 1


 To contact brian,

These pages are dedicated to my experiences of the Peugeot Boxer, 1.9Ltr Turbo Diesel engine and not definitive advise. 

Keep forgetting your MOT, then this site will remind you:

You will find clicking on my email contact will bring up message 'ActiveX code' just click OK

Great Ormond Street Hospital  Children's Charity 
Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
Tel: 020 7239 3000 
Please click on the link to donate

As author and maintainer of this web site. I do not save, retain, or sell  any email addresses of those who email me. Should you not get a reply from me, please send again, I might have missed it in my spam catcher!

New Page additions: 
1.Fitting a Turbo Boost Gauge
2.Replacing clutch Cable 

To Speed up page loading, images are shown as a 'Thumbnail' Clicking on these will show the complete image

To Home page























Our Motorhome has been sold

[click above link for pictures]

Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome.

Description of the motorhome can be seen through out the pages of my web site here.

The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109228 on day of sale.


To Page Links and contents  Index

1. Panel lamps replacement. 2. Fuse Panel - Peugeot Boxer 3.Rust Prevention  on front cross member and how I replaced it.
4. Images of a rust damaged cross member. 5. How to replace a rust damaged cross member- by Jim Graham
6. Changing the Cross Member - By Brian



[Click pictures for larger image]

Fuse Panel - Peugeot Boxer

     Any work on the electrics will require the battery negative to be removed. Also a necessity is the fuse box and knowing it's location. This is found in the 'Glove' Compartment  under the push to open panel. It is secured with two screws only.

     Conveniently the fuse cover shows all the fuse functions, by using diagram illustrations.

Fuse box in the glove compartment

Fuse values

Fuse Values

Fuse box in the glove compartment, taken off and turned over.


Fuse Positions


       When we purchased our Wanderer it was obvious the battery had overflowed and the red rust on the engine interior was the outcome.  As we had a good deal on the Wanderer I did not push the problem with the view I would have to do the job myself. Also the dealer was 160 miles away, another reason for others to choose and purchase from a dealer closer to home.

        Having repaired the engine interior area, I had a look underneath the engine and saw the Cross Beam, which is pressed in two parts and welded together, it had all it's paint stripped and was flaking with rust.  I could see that the battery overflow had stripped the paint work.

Rusted Beams. Viewed Underneath.
[Click For larger image.]


View of cross beam, before restoration


Another view of cross beam, before restoration

       A letter in a Motorhome Magazine had made the point about this beam rusting,  the vehicle mentioned had failed the MOT.

        The complete beam cannot be seen due to the lower bumper enclosing most of it.   To get at the beam, to enable work to be done, meant taking off the bumper and all parts around the front of the Peugeot Boxer.

        Having done this, I was fortunate,  I could see the rust damage was superficial.  A wire brush and paint work repair was all that was needed.  I had got it in time.

       The beam was painted with "Jenolite," left over night,  and then painted with "Hammerite." The interior of the Beam was then injected with "Waxoyl" to cover any rust which would have spread inside the beam and also the welded joints.

       The photos below show the bumper in different stages of removal and re-installing.

The inside plastic wheel arch covers must be removed first.  There are about six self tapping screws and three "Fir Tree" type plastic securing pins holding it on.

When the Wheel Arch cover is removed, a bumper securing tube can be seen bolted to the bulk head. This must be removed.  It will probably need attention.  In my case the securing bolts had rusted and had to be replaced.

Remove the exterior panel below the engine bonnet, which is secured with four self tapping screws. When removing this panel, it  must be eased off slowly from either end, as it is secured with push pins at the extremes.  When pulling off, if the thin base panel securing the removed panel, is pulled as well, the panel will protrude from the front when reassembling.  Just push it in to it's original position!

Remove the three screw nuts which secure the top of the bumper.  These can be seen when the panel in the last instruction has been removed.  Click on the pictures below to see these fixing points.

Remove the two blank covers at the front of the bumper and remove the bolts underneath with a 15mm socket spanner. On the same level as the tow bracket.

The bumper can now be taken off the front of the engine by pulling away from the radiator.  Note the plastic slide in runner,  securing device,  located inside the wheel arches.

Reinstalling is reverse of the above procedure.  Ensure all the screw and bolts are given a coating of grease. you might want to take it off again in a couple of years.

Photos in different stages of removal:
[Click for larger image]

Click for larger image

Bumper removed for remedial work

Click for larger image

Showing rust from battery overflow

Click for larger image

Click to see fixing points of bumper.

Click for larger image
Bumper ready to be re-installed

Click for larger image
View of crossbeam after 3 months[2002]

Click for larger image
Another view of crossbeam after 6 months[2002]




After 10 years of ownership Changing Cross Member
 Mar. 2013


     Mar. 2013 and after 16 years, I have replaced the cross member.

It is not neccesary to remove the bumper and other addons to change the cross member.

This job can be done by any DIY mechanic. 6 bolts, 3 either side need to be removed, using an 18mm ring spanner. I found an open ended spanner will slip off.

     It was not neccessary to remove the bumper. The radiator and intercooler are bolted together from above so I didn't think they needed support for the removal.

     I removed the tie clips, attached to the crossmember, which retain the starter feed cable and the radiator control cables. 

     Leaving 1 bolt either side, supported by a trolly jack, I removed the last two bolts and lowered it down. Rubber bungs came with it, which are supports of the radiator and the intercooler. They were refitted to the new cross member.

     Replacing it is the reverse of removal. But, before I did paint the exterior with 'Hammerite' to cover scratch marks. I also cleaned off and painted the chassis edges, either side and other areas showing signs of rust. These were under the crossmember bolt retainers.

     When starting to remove, I found the bolts extremely tight. This was my solution. There is a hole between the bolts, I sprayed through this hole, penetrating oil,  up and into the extreme end of the bolts. Inside the hollow of the cross member, its only the lower 1/2 of the bolts which have a thread. In this case the bolts are screw thread up, so when you spray the penetrating oil you are trying to get up into the vicinity of the bolts.

    Using a 4lb hammer I tapped the spanner tight 1st, and then tapped it again to unscrew. A couple of taps was enough to release each bolt. Which suprised me as they had not been touched for 16 years! Using the hammer, ring spanner, and a small tube about 18" long was all I needed. I had come prepared with a scafold pole!

    The 18mm ring spanner used, purchased from Halfords. Which cost £4.99 in Mar 2013.


Link to 'Our Motorhome' Description

A view of what rust can do to a cross member which came out of  Derek McKeown's vehicle. Pictures which he kindly supplied.
Many Thanks Derek.

Click on images for a larger view


       Obtained from Halfords in the UK,  Jenolite is a good rust preventer it converts Iron Oxide (rust) into Iron Phosphate which prevents further rust forming.

       Rub down the effected area, treat with Jenolite or similar, clean, prime, and paint. Rub down the primer with P1200 wet or dry paper prior to painting with the top coat to maintain a gloss finish.

Here is a description by - Jim Graham - of a Cross Member replacement

Hi Brian,

Just letting you know how I got on with the fitting of the replacement Lower Crossmember.

Removing trim and bumper went well as none of the fixings were corroded. 

Before removing the Crossmember I supported the radiator and the component to the left(Intercooler) with three web straps suspended from the crossmember above.

There is a large plastic cover low down on the battery side which is attached to the Crossmember with an M10 x 25 hex head bolt. Remove bolt and push aside.     

The Crossmember was supported with a wooden block and wedges and the three 18mm A/F hexagon bolts both sides slackened off. I had attempted to loosen these bolts with release oil but none of it had gotten through to the threads. There was a fair bit of resistance on the bolts on removal, I think this was due to Loctite on the threads. The necks of the bolts on the side below the battery were very corroded.

 [ See above my repair- Brian]

Before this stage I should have released the cable clips (4) attached to the bottom of the Crossmember. These clips push into holes in the Crossmember which I managed to break when I attempted to remove them.

Retain the four rubber isolator mounts from below the radiator. 

With the rotten Crossmember removed I treated all the the rust below the battery with Jenolite and later a coat of Hammerite paint. I also removed the battery and gave the tray the same treatment.

All this was done in lovely Sunday afternoon sunshine but refitting it all was done on a very wet Monday - not so pleasant.

Prior to fitting the new Crossmember I gave the outside a coat of Hammerite paint and squirted Waxoyl inside.

I applied Loctite to the six attachment bolts before fitting. Fitting the Cossmember is really a two man job as the four rubber isolators under the radiator have to be aligned. I extended the socket wrench with a short length of pipe to apply a bit extra torque to the six bolts.

My replacement Crossmember wasn't a genuine Peugeot part consequently the M10 bolt which supports the plastic cover wouldn't fit because the tappings were a 'Course fit' and not the 'Medium fit' of the original.

Everything went back on as easily as it came off.

My Crossmember cost £80 and the Peugeot part is £130. I was given a quote of £205 + vat to supply and fit a new Crossmember by my local Peugeot dealer, I wonder what they would have done with the rusty area around the battery tray?  I always feel I've lost control when I put a vehicle into a garage.

Hope this helps somebody.

Best regards Jim

30th April 2009

To Page Links and contents  Index

To Home Page

Peugeot 1

Peugeot 2

Peugeot 3

Peugeot  4

Peugeot 5

Peugeot 6

Peugeot 7

Peugeot 8

Peugeot 9

Peugeot 10

Peugeot 11

Peugeot 12

Peugeot 13

Peugeot 14

Peugeot 15

Peugeot 16

Peugeot 17

Peugeot 18

Peugeot 19

Peugeot 20

Peugeot 21

Peugeot 22