1. Battery Maintenance. 2.
Alternator and replacement 3. Solar Panels
4. Removing terminals 5. New
Plastic Battery Tray
maintenance is not something that is done very often by me. Until
one day I decided to check the battery fluid levels. I read somewhere
that battery levels can diminish quite rapidly. I now have a
taking the filler caps off, checking at the front was not a
problem, but the others were. Due to the overhang of the engine
compartment fittings, It is not possible to see the filler hole
levels at the back. I came up with this solution, which is probably
familiar to most people.
Distilled battery water from a Motor factor, not tap water. With a
flexible extension pipe battery filler - I made up a plastic bottle.
Fill the back cell first, until you see the fluid just overflowing,
empty the filler, squeeze the bellows, allow the bottle to suck up
the surplus, then empty it into the second from the end filler hole.
Do the same with each cell aperture.
not to allow the water to overflow as it has an acid content and
will soon show up on the battery tray, and cross member, by rusting.
Battery Filler, part Ref: 14900, can be obtained from: Vehicle
Wiring Products, complete address below.
the battery. Start the engine, with your test meter. The battery
voltage should increase slightly from a nominal 12.5 v fully charged
battery, when the engine is idling, and depending on the load on the
battery. As the revs are increased then the voltage reading will rise
up to a maximum of around 14.5 volts, if the alternator is operating
correctly. Over 14.5 volts or a fluctuation in voltage at steady revs
above idle, indicate a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator.
simple way of testing this alternator function without a voltmeter is
to watch the brightness of the interior reading lamp between idle and
around 2000 rpm. It should brighten as the battery voltage increases
when the alternator is producing a charge current.
charged, healthy battery with no load (headlights on, etc.) will
still be trickled charged and showing around 13v about 0.5v above
nominal battery voltage when engine is ticking over.
thanks for this information which came from: "Alan Eccles"
included below for the interest of the DIY mechanic, details of the
Alternator. Connectors can be seen on the drawing 'Alternator
Contacts' and the internal workings can be seen in the drawing
'Alternator contacts Internally'
B+ contact can be found the heavy cable to the battery, usually
covered in RED insulation. Often there is also a heavy cable to the
starter motor at this point.
cable, in the Boxer covered with a BLUE insulation, is the cable
which is used for the Fridge voltage control when the vehicle is running.
contact is used for Tachometer Meter functions.
For a larger image.]
to change the alternator & Power
Assistance Servo drive belts
The alternator and
PAS belts can be an easy job for a persistant DIY mechanic. This does
require one to get
under the van. I drove the van onto ramps and chocked the wheels,
very important when working under the van. As the ramps are not very
high this meant me working on my back, using a
tarpaulin to lay on.
1. Remove the
protecting tray under the alternator area. On my van
I required 17mm, 15mm and 10mm spanners.
2. Remove the PAS
belt first as it is over and covers the Alternator belt.
To remove, unscrew the two securing shaft screws. These can be very
tight and will require good quality spanners.
Unscrew the 13mm adjuster securing bolt. The PAS pump will now swing
in and allow the belt to be removed and enable the changing of the
3. Remove the
alternator belt. Slacken off the shaft bolt.
Slacken off the tension adjust securing bolt on top of the alternator.
Slacken off the tension 10mm bolt which adjusts the belt, on top side
of the alternator.
The alternator will now swing in and allow the belt to be removed.
See the pictures below;
Note: I found the
PAS pump could not be swung in far enough to remove the belt. This
removal of the
shaft screws entirely.
If the shaft screws
are too tight for removal spray with 3in1 oil or any suitable oil to
Fitting of the
belts is reverse of removal. Ensure the belts are not too tight. It
possible to squeeze
them 90 degrees in about 1/4" or 10mm.
The only reason for
the change was the belt had a squeel on start up and a 'Shushing'
sound when running, not heard before. When the belt was off I found
it had split 40% horizontally, almost making two belts working in parallel.
6 Ribbed Belt
View while adjusting
the PAS Belt
from the Battery
placing the van in winter storage I normally take off the negative
terminal to reduce the battery drain. That was until I read in a car
maintenance magazine, whereby removing and installing a battery
cable, it could cause a spark that would ignite the battery gases and explode.
solution was to fit a switch from the negative terminal to the earth
strap. See my Sketch. I have secured the switch under the
Battery Isolator switch and spare keys Catalogue Ref:BIS.
Crimp on clamp and Ring cable Ref:BCN..
Starter cable with rings both ends Ref:SSN.
can be obtained from:
Wiring Products, 9, Buxton Court, Manners Industrial Estate,
Ilkeston, Derbyshire. DE7 8EF U.K.
recent comment queried the possible running problem if an electronic
ECU is fitted.
from the 'CarMechanics' magazine was obtained:
the battery, start the engine and let it idle until the cooling fan
comes on. Then drive the vehicle for about 15 minutes, trying to keep
the revs up above 2000rpm.
end of this the vehicle should have re-learned it's operating parameters.
PLASTIC BATTERY TRAY
water overflowing from the bonnet, Peugeot developed a plastic tray
which was placed inside the main metal battery tray. This tray would
collect the overflow water and drain to the floor via a plastic pipe
which is a push fit onto the plastic tray extension drain pipe.
plastic tray extension pipe had broken, so I purchased a new one from
a Peugeot dealer at £4.75. [Oct 2005]
replacing, I found the tray to be slightly different, the tray drain
pipe was closer to the edge. This meant I had to cut the metal
battery support tray to accommodate the mechanical change. I suspect
the change was due to the pipe being too close to the wheel arch and
when connected to the pipe probably meant the pipe was a tight fit
and being edged away from the wheel arch, and in time would split. As
in my case.
sketch below, where the differences can be seen.
the water away from the tray does not alter the problem where the
overflow from the windscreen splashes on the battery before it enters
the tray. A quick and dirty solution was to fit a plastic cover over
the battery and secure it with an elastic 'Bungy.' I'm afraid this
solution has become permanent with me!
the temporary cover the splashed water enters the battery filling it,
when it overflows the acid causes chassis damage. It is imperative
the tray is secure and in good condition.
panels is a subject frequently talked about. Something for nothing!
That is of course after you have purchased an expensive alternative.
I use a
solar panel for 'Topping' up my battery while the vehicle is not used.
my panel was quite easy, black crocdile clip to negative terminal,
and red clip to positive terminal.
first thing that came to mind when I connected these terminals was;
where was the fuse to protect the cables from the battery to the
solar panel? This missing item could cause heavy current from the
battery, should the door jam on the cables. This in turn would melt
the cables and produce a fire, when the vehicle was not attended.
something all owners of solar panels must consider. A fuse and fuse
container should be fitted within inches [Centimetres] of the
battery. Not just to protect the solar panel but to ensure should the
cable get 'snagged' then it will blow the fuse and isolate the
battery. Having experience in my working life the short circuit of a
battery, I don't want it happening to me!
attaching to a battery which had been left standing a fortnight, I
found the current from the solar panel, on a dull day, was
6milliamps [0.006Amps] Had the battery been discharged I would have
expected a larger charge.
can be seen my solar panel with fuse inserted
close to the battery.
this feature, I have purchased another solar panel which are now so
much cheaper than my original. The fittings are just the same.
panel from Ebay was £24 during 2014, This is able to give a
charge of 6 Amps on a good day and has a charger controller to ensure
panel on Dash
Clips fitted to battery, with in line fuse.
fuse box added to solar panel cable
5 Amp fuse.