PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr Diesel Engine Page 14


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These pages are dedicated to my experiences of the Peugeot Boxer, 1.9Ltr Turbo Diesel engine and not definitive advise. 

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Contents: 1. Battery Maintenance. 2. The Alternator and replacement 3. Solar Panels 4. Removing terminals  5. New Plastic Battery Tray

Battery Maintenance.

Battery maintenance is not something that is done very often by me. Until one day I decided to check the battery fluid levels. I read somewhere that battery levels can diminish quite rapidly.  I now have a

When taking the filler caps off,  checking at the front was not a problem, but the others were.  Due to the overhang of the engine compartment fittings, It is not possible to see the filler hole levels at the back. I came up with this solution, which is probably familiar to most people.

Using Distilled battery water from a Motor factor, not tap water. With a flexible extension pipe battery filler - I made up a plastic bottle. Fill the back cell first, until you see the fluid just overflowing, empty the filler, squeeze the bellows, allow the bottle to suck up the surplus, then empty it into the second from the end filler hole. Do the same with each cell aperture.

Try not to allow the water to overflow as it has an acid content and will soon show up on the battery tray, and cross member, by rusting.

A Battery Filler, part Ref: 14900, can be obtained from: Vehicle Wiring Products, complete address below.

Checking the battery. Start the engine, with your test meter. The battery voltage should increase slightly from a nominal 12.5 v fully charged battery, when the engine is idling, and depending on the load on the battery. As the revs are increased then the voltage reading will rise up to a maximum of around 14.5 volts, if the alternator is operating correctly. Over 14.5 volts or a fluctuation in voltage at steady revs above idle, indicate a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator.

The Alternator

A simple way of testing this alternator function without a voltmeter is to watch the brightness of the interior reading lamp between idle and around 2000 rpm. It should brighten as the battery voltage increases when the alternator is producing a charge current.

A fully charged, healthy battery with no load (headlights on, etc.) will still be trickled charged and showing around 13v about 0.5v above nominal battery voltage when engine is ticking over.

Many thanks for this information which came from: "Alan Eccles" <alaneccles54[at]> 

I have included below for the interest of the DIY mechanic, details of the Alternator. Connectors can be seen on the drawing 'Alternator Contacts' and the internal workings can be seen in the drawing 'Alternator contacts Internally'

On the B+ contact can be found the heavy cable to the battery, usually covered in RED insulation. Often there is also a heavy cable to the starter motor at this point.

The D+ cable, in the Boxer covered with a BLUE insulation, is the cable which is used for the Fridge voltage control when the vehicle is running.

The W contact is used for Tachometer Meter functions.

[Click For a larger image.] 

Alternator contacts

Alternator contacts

Alternator contacts Internally

Alternator contacts Internally

How to change the alternator & Power Assistance Servo drive belts

The alternator and PAS belts can be an easy job for a persistant DIY mechanic. This does
require one to get under the van. I drove the van onto ramps and chocked the wheels, very important when working under the van. As the ramps are not very high this meant me working on my back, using a
tarpaulin to lay on.
1. Remove the protecting tray under the alternator area. On my van I  required 17mm, 15mm and 10mm spanners.
2. Remove the PAS belt first as it is over and covers the Alternator belt.
    To remove, unscrew the two securing shaft screws. These can be very tight and will require good quality spanners.
    Unscrew the 13mm adjuster securing bolt. The PAS pump will now swing in and allow the belt to be removed and enable the changing of the Alternator belt.
3. Remove the alternator belt. Slacken off the shaft bolt.
    Slacken off the tension adjust securing bolt on top of the alternator.
    Slacken off the tension 10mm bolt which adjusts the belt, on top side of the alternator.
    The alternator will now swing in and allow the belt to be removed.
See the pictures below; Note: I found the PAS pump could not be swung in far enough to remove the belt. This required a
removal of the shaft screws entirely.
If the shaft screws are too tight for removal spray with 3in1 oil or any suitable oil to ease it
off overnight.
Fitting of the belts is reverse of removal. Ensure the belts are not too tight. It should be
possible to squeeze them 90 degrees in about 1/4" or 10mm.
The only reason for the change was the belt had a squeel on start up and a 'Shushing' sound when running, not heard before. When the belt was off I found it had split 40% horizontally, almost making two belts working in parallel.

View while adjusting

6PK730 6 Ribbed Belt

View while adjusting

Opposite View while adjusting

PAS Belt

Adjusting the PAS Belt

Removing terminals from the Battery

When placing the van in winter storage I normally take off the negative terminal to reduce the battery drain. That was until I read in a car maintenance magazine, whereby removing and installing a battery cable, it could cause a spark that would ignite the battery gases and explode.

My solution was to fit a switch from the negative terminal to the earth strap. See my Sketch. I have secured the switch under the battery tray.

Battery Negative Switch

1. The Battery Isolator switch and spare keys Catalogue Ref:BIS.  
2. Crimp on clamp and Ring cable Ref:BCN..  
3. Starter cable with rings both ends Ref:SSN.
Items can be obtained from: 

Vehicle Wiring Products, 9, Buxton Court, Manners Industrial Estate, Ilkeston, Derbyshire. DE7 8EF U.K.
Tel: 0115 9305454
Web site:

A recent comment queried the possible running problem if an electronic ECU is fitted.
Advice from the 'CarMechanics' magazine was obtained:

Reconnect the battery, start the engine and let it idle until the cooling fan comes on. Then drive the vehicle for about 15 minutes, trying to keep the revs up above 2000rpm.

At the end of this the vehicle should have re-learned it's operating parameters. 


Due to water overflowing from the bonnet, Peugeot developed a plastic tray which was placed inside the main metal battery tray. This tray would collect the overflow water and drain to the floor via a plastic pipe which is a push fit onto the plastic tray extension drain pipe.

My plastic tray extension pipe had broken, so I purchased a new one from a Peugeot dealer at £4.75. [Oct 2005]

On replacing, I found the tray to be slightly different, the tray drain pipe was closer to the edge. This meant I had to cut the metal battery support tray to accommodate the mechanical change. I suspect the change was due to the pipe being too close to the wheel arch and when connected to the pipe probably meant the pipe was a tight fit and being edged away from the wheel arch, and in time would split. As in my case.

See my sketch below, where the differences can be seen. 

Battery tray differences shown

Draining the water away from the tray does not alter the problem where the overflow from the windscreen splashes on the battery before it enters the tray. A quick and dirty solution was to fit a plastic cover over the battery and secure it with an elastic 'Bungy.' I'm afraid this solution has become permanent with me!

Without the temporary cover the splashed water enters the battery filling it, when it overflows the acid causes chassis damage. It is imperative the tray is secure and in good condition.

Solar Panels

Solar panels is a subject frequently talked about. Something for nothing! That is of course after you have purchased an expensive alternative.

I use a solar panel for 'Topping' up my battery while the vehicle is not used.

Connecting my panel was quite easy, black crocdile clip to negative terminal, and red clip to positive terminal.

The first thing that came to mind when I connected these terminals was; where was the fuse to protect the cables from the battery to the solar panel? This missing item could cause heavy current from the battery, should the door jam on the cables. This in turn would melt the cables and produce a fire, when the vehicle was not attended.

This is something all owners of solar panels must consider. A fuse and fuse container should be fitted within inches [Centimetres] of the battery. Not just to protect the solar panel but to ensure should the cable get 'snagged' then it will blow the fuse and isolate the battery. Having experience in my working life the short circuit of a battery, I don't want it happening to me!

After attaching to a battery which had been left standing a fortnight, I found the current from the solar panel, on a dull day,  was 6milliamps [0.006Amps] Had the battery been discharged I would have expected a larger charge.

Below can be seen my solar panel with fuse inserted close to the battery.

Since this feature, I have purchased another solar panel which are now so much cheaper than my original. The fittings are just the same.

This panel from Ebay was £24 during 2014, This is able to give a charge of 6 Amps on a good day and has a charger controller to ensure no overcharging.

Solar panel

Solar panel connectors

Solar panel plugs



Solar panel on Dash



Crocodile Clips fitted to battery, with in line fuse.

Inline fuse box added to solar panel cable

Inline 5 Amp fuse.

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