Windows Winder Switching - Installation. 2. Schematic
Drawing 3. Door Switches
dash panels 5. Fuse Box 6. Rigid
Sleeve Tubes 7. Installation
Peugeot Boxer - Electrical
Switch Operated Windows Winders Modification
[Click on all icons for a
suggested to my wife that Electrically operated windows winders might
be a good idea, her response was, the window winding lever on the
Boxer was awkward, and very hard to use with it's opposite direction
motion, and it was a good suggestion. Especially at French toll
booths. That settled it.
window modification is basically removing the 'Armstrong' lever
handle method and replacing it with a reduction gear and electric
motor. Controlled by switches.
An order was
made with M8 Auto-Tec Ltd of Paisley, in Scotland, who advertise in
the Motorhome Motorcaravan Monthly [MMM] magazine in the UK. Tel:
0141 887 8777
Below is information
Kindly received from Mick Hopkins, 10thMar. 2006
The Electric window
kit...Made by sempal, the firm you bought yours from, has been taken
over and now does mainly body kits and radios for the lads!!! the kit
is available from Sempal by mail order, site address is www.sempal.co.uk
Telephone No. 0870 145 3939 the std. kit is £104.95 or the
deluxe kit with a more powerfull motor £123.95 all inc. VAT.
The web site has now
closed down June 2016
gratefully received from Mick.
The kit of parts
came with almost every variation of car installation possible. For
example the drive gear came with 12 varieties to move the winding
mechanism, I was able to find one for the Boxer with no problem.
Kit of Parts
work was complete, an intermittent switch required a phone call to
the manufacturer, who produced a replacement overnight:
worked in the Electronics industry for almost 30 years, now retired.
I found it easier to service equipment if I knew how it worked. This
usually meant perusing the handbooks and components. This I did with
my project and came up with this web page.
are unique, I have included their internal drawing for ease of
servicing and fault finding.
Type of switch used
Tag view of the switch used
Internal drawing view of switch
would think this electric window modification would be done by a
confident DIY mechanic. There's a lot of wiring to install with
it's inherent mechanical work, this required taking down the front
dash panels and the door panels.
produced the electrical drawing, which includes the internal working
of the switches here:
Diagram of the Electric Windows
[Select for larger image]
Drawing of electric windows
side light supply feed is shown, as in the original instructions.
This supplies the internal lamp. I did not use this function, as in
our car the windows switch, does not have an internal light and is
something we have not missed. This also reduces the complication of
cables when installing. The other problem is; If you rely on the
lamp, then it fails, a new switch will be required!
carrying out the modification, one or two of the instructions left
me puzzled, but they soon fell into place when the work was in progress.
had always been very hard to operate, so the first job was to find
out the reason. It is no point installing electric windows then have
the motors burn out because the windows were sticking.
off the door panels and the insulation
underneath, Ensure the flimsy insulation material is taken off with
care. It is an important part of the door draught and panel
protection, also any damp getting into the door. A proper door panel
'Pry Bar' removing tool is useful for this job. I produced a
'U' shaped tip from a large screwdriver, which allowed me to get
under the firtree type panel securing devices. Pry bars are now
Door Ready for Modification
It was clear
to see the winding mechanism had never been greased by the
factory. So this was the first thing to do. I greased up
the sliding mechanism, the flexible wire and pulleys using silicon
grease, which has better sliding properties. I then sprayed the
window runners with furniture silicon polish spray. This has
been suggested in the DIY magazines as being ideal for this purpose.
Having done all that the windows now opened very much easier, using
the door handle.
Above shows the vertical window slider,
Above shows the vertical window slider and
cable sleeve, already greased
Above shows the vertical window slider,
was very much a case of following the instructions. Importantly, I
disconnected the battery negative terminal before starting.
I found the
securing bolts of the original handle winding mechanism fouled the
kit Reduction gearing, due to their length, by pushing it out,
causing the reduction gear to protrude to far out into the interior.
[See the above 'Door Ready' image] This could probably cause a
protrusion in the door panel. The solution was to place some spacing
washers behind the bolts reducing the visible length. The length made
was just enough to secure the nut. I preferred this, rather than
cutting them short. See the illustration below
Spacers fitted to winding mechanism to
stop bolts protruding onto door panel.
Next, with the
tubular spacers provided, I was then able to secure the reduction
gear around the winding mechanism.
The Reduction Gear for each window
Reduction gear fitted to the handle
The reduction gear is not protruding above
face of door
See how reduction gear is fitted to the
handle winding mechanism
The width of
the Boxer door made the fitting of the motor very easy. I placed it
near the bottom as this eliminated any bends in the drive cable of
the reduction gearing, and also this position was more than clear of
the window winding mechanism which has quite a long drop.
Do not place the motor at the very bottom
as any water ingress could damage it.
resistive Cables are attached to each motor. This is important as
they reduce the excessive current passed to the motors should the
system become faulty. This happened to me once, a faulty switch
passed current continuously to the electric wipers motor, when
the wiper blades stuck on a dry windscreen. This burnt out the motor.
resistive cable will control maximum current to the motor
and hopefully control the excess current, as there is no stop
function on the motor. When the window is in the locked position at
the top or bottom, the function switch will still pass current to the
motor in it's stationary position.
The drive cable to motor located at the
bottom of the door
installation instructions give you options, use two switches, one on
each door, or three switches, one on the passenger door and two on
the drivers door. the second on the drivers door is a duplicate
passenger door switch. [Very handy when driving on the continent.]
While the two switch option makes for easier installing, I opted for
the 3 switches. This for convenience when travelling. The switches
operate on a rocker movement. Forward position for window up, and the
rear position for window down, as indicated on the switch face.
In the Boxer cab, the
door pulling handles have apertures incorporated for electric window
switches. The drivers door had a square aperture which was just the
right size for the two switches, a little easing with a file made
them a good fit.
passenger door had a similar sized aperture, so a plate was produced
to hold the one switch.
Passenger Door Switch
Drivers Door Switches
difficult part was the installation of the cables. The Boxer door and
pillar has holes already manufactured for the cables. The problem was
the door pillar, there did not seem any natural access from
this hole to the van interior. I eventually removed the interior
light door pillar switch, which is about 30cm above. This allowed me
to pull the cables from the door up, and then transfer the cables
from this position to the interior, above the vehicle interior road
spring housing. As the kit did not have enough cable for the Boxer I
had to purchase more. I ensured it was suitable for a car with
flexible properties required for the pillar, and also for the current
taken by the motor.
images below which displays how I fed the cables through the door pillar.
How to remove Dash Panel
[Click for larger image]
Method used to pass cables
into interior of van
Passing cables through
Cables at the door handle
The completed job
from the pillar were hidden behind the noise insulation panels inside
feed cables were taken to the fuse panel, and an empty spade was used
which had a permanent battery voltage, as per the instructions. I am
reconsidering this option! Perhaps placing the operating voltage on
the ignition key Parking On position. This was considered
as when the battery was reconnected to check the completed
installation, the passenger window immediately opened! This was
due to a faulty door switch sticking in the down position. This
is not good for security as this could happen when the vehicle is
Fuse box where cable was
The Drivers door fuse,
first from the right. Passenger door fuse is second from the right.
Fuse box Below.
Interior indicator fuse plate
Fuse panel with fuse values and functions
indicated. Fuse 12N has been replaced with a 25Amp. Due to the
extra torque of the motor, on the upward motion of the window, taking
more current and blowing the 10 Amp fuse.
One of the last items of the installation
was to enlarge the original handle hole in the door panel,
and place in position a rigid tube with cover, from the installation
kit, this is to blank off the old handle hole and to cover the
reduction gear which had replaced it.
Door Panel with added Rigid tube
Door Panel with Rigid Tube cover
Door Panel Completed.
are completely happy with the electrically controlled windows, they
work very well.
As a DIY mechanic,
the installation took me 3 days to complete, 5 hours each day.
thoroughly recommend this kit and is proving to be very reliable in
use over the last 15 years.
miles through France, Spain, Portugal and innumerable Toll booths,
when my wife operated the windows there was a sigh of relief, usually
with the comment; "This is one of your better modifications to
windows have given us first class service through out our tours
through Europe in the summers of 2003/2016.
included the instructions here, with notes as they applied to me
during installation, on the Peugeot Boxer:
The instructions give very poor images as
you progress. The above photos will perhaps make it clear, and the drawings
I produced below.
Exploded view of the parts to the handle
1. Remove the window winding handle. This
can be tricky on the Boxer. Push the round base trim back into
the door, away from the handle. Underneath you see a type of circlip
around the winding shaft, holding the handle in position - I produced
a hook from high tensile antenna wire - hook this around the circlip.
at the same time holding back the round base trim. When you start to
pull the circlip back to remove it, hold it with a long nose pliers.
Or, as happened with me it sprung out, and I had to grovel on the
floor for it. Although it is not needed any more, I always assume
parts will be needed. As items I throw away are always wanted the
2. The instructions suggest you make the
door handle hole in the panel larger, to accommodate the reduction
winding mechanism. Again being a fatalist, just in case things did
not work out, I left this to the last.
3. This instruction mentions checking the
condition of the window mechanism. I believe this should come under
my narrative above, about making sure the windows are not stiff and
to free them if they are.
4. Choose a suitable splined adaptor from
the kit, slide it over the shaft and secure it. I chose an adaptor
which covered the hole shaft, so as to reduce the torque in the
splined position of the shaft.
There is no screw method of securing the
Splined adaptor on the Boxer, only the indent
in the shaft. as there is no provision in the kit for this, my
adaptor it is not secured. But in practice the adaptor is proving to
be very secure. If it proves troublesome, watch this space for a cure.
Splined adaptor which does all the work of winding!
5. After fitting the adaptor use the
original screw to secure it.
See my comments in No. 4.
6. Choose one of the three sleeves from
On the Boxer I had to use the longest
splined sleeve. [This was slightly longer than the adaptor, so later
when all was assembled, I cut it down to a suitable length, just
short of the adaptor.]
7. Having chosen a splined sleeve for the
adaptor, I placed it into the reduction gear, as per the
instructions, from the side without a metal plate strengthener.
This is done before it is placed on the door.
Without any other instruction, I did this
as the selected splined sleeving fitted flush with the reduction gear
frame, giving no protrusion to bulge the door panel.
Reduction Gear ready for the Splined Sleeve,
fitted to the other side as opposed to the
8. This instruction gives a caution about
using the reduction gears for different rotations of the window
handle. i.e. anti clockwise or clockwise, they are marked A or B.
I could not see why this was so, but I
tried to follow the instruction.
9. Attach the rubber sponge to the
reduction gear on the side coming into contact with the metal service.
This is probably to reduce any rumble
being amplified by the door. This sponge is a bit flimsy, I would
like to have had a firmer sponge rubber. As it so happens the
reduction gear does not come into contact with the door, due to the
10. Next instruction is to fit and place
the electric motor in a suitable position.
The Boxer has a very wide door, it
was easy to find a position which would not foul the window when at
it's lowest point.
I fitted it almost at the bottom. making
sure there was clearance in case any water did get in to the door
cavity. On my vehicle I am lucky no water penetration was evident.
This fitting also ensured the cable from the reduction gear to the
motor had no sharp bends which eliminated any binding.
Electric motor in a suitable position
11. This instructs you to attach the small
sponge rings to the motor.
Again this is to reduce the rumble from
the motor being sent into the door frame. I had some rubber sheeting
in my workshop so I added that to the motor frame, as I felt the
sponge was too flimsy and would break through very quickly in use.
12. This again instructs you to attach
more sponge. Probably the outer edge nearest the outer skin of the door.
Which seems to duplicate the instruction
in 11, or perhaps to stop any movement on the outer door panel.
13. This is where we attach the reduction
gear to the door handle winding mechanism.
On the boxer I found it more suitable
'Outside the Door Skin' which is the side nearest to the hardboard
door panel. It will also be easier to maintain at a future date if required.
Fit the reduction gear over the splined
adaptor, note the position, and punch point the position on the door
with a centre punch drill start.
Drill a hole suitable for the self tapping
screws from the kit.
Again place the reduction gear over the
splined adaptor, use a suitable length spacer, from the kit, and
secure the reduction gear squarely. Using one screw support at
his moment, do not tighten.
14. Next place the 'Y' shaped bracket on
the inside edge, of the reduction gear, use a spacer and secure the
second self tapping screw. Again making sure the screw and spacer
holds the reduction gear squarely on the shaft. You might have to
place a washer under the pillar of screw number one, to take up the
extra space used by the 'Y' bracket.
Do the same for the third hole, securing
the 'Y' bracket and spacer. don't tighten up the screws until the
three are in place. ease up each screw alternately. Only when each is
firm, tighten up completely, making sure the reduction gear is square
on the winding mechanism.
It is now possible to wind the reduction
gear cable by hand, or you can use a pliers, but be careful, as the
end of the cable could be pinched, then it would not be able to
position it inside the motor.
The above instruction will determine if
the reduction gear is binding. If you have difficulties here rectify
the problem before going any further.
As the electric cables are not connected
at this point, I then tested the fittings by using a battery drill,
attaching to the winding flexible steel cable, then wound the window
down, this again ensured the reduction gear was not binding.
I assume the 'Y' shaped bracket is to
secure the reduction drive in position, and not strain the securing
pillar self tapping screws, which hold the reduction drive in position.
So after placing and securing the drive
and 'Y' bracket, drill and secure the 'Y' bracket to the door, with a
self tapping screw.
15. This informs you, about
ensuring the above instructions have been completed.
16a. Gives you an option to place the
reduction gear inside the door 'Skin'. In the Boxer I felt this would
obstruct the window as it wound down. I found the installation on the
outer skin to be satisfactory and did not foul the hardboard door
panel when placed back in position.
17. Instructs on using the template for
installation. I think this instruction should be placed in the No. 7 position.
18. I was not able to determine what
this instruction meant!
19. A template is provided to enable the
motor to be mounted. Use it if you prefer and mount the motor at the
base of the inner skin, with two bolts from the kit.
I think this instruction should be placed
in the No. 10 position.
I used a thin rubber membrane between the
motor and the door panel to reduce any rumble transfer.
20. This instruction advises drilling the
door and pillar for the cables. This is not required in the Peugeot
Boxer, as the facilities for cables are built in with grommets provided.
21. Take the door and pillar grommets out,
and cut a hole in them to accommodate the cable sleeving. Not too
large or draught and wind whistle could occur later. Insert the
cables through this assembly, then into the vehicle interior. The
sleeving diameter provided was not large enough, so I replaced them
with pieces I had in my 'Junk' box
[ See the narrative and photos above on
how I did this procedure]
22. This instruction gives you the option
to use templates to enable door panel holes, for the switches.
This is not required in the Boxer as there
are blanked off apertures in the door pulling handle for switches.
It is at this point the instructions do
not mention that cables for the switches have to be prepared for the
door handle, and the cables have to fed to their respective positions.
Connect up the door switches with the
cables using fittings supplied.
Note: The connectors for the switch tags
are very tight. Take care. If you push too hard it will push the
switch spades into the body of the switch. This in turn damages the switch.
Fit the passenger door positive cable to
the fuse box, the negative cable can be fitted to the earth point,
found inside the vehicle near the point where the interior wheel arch
swings down to the door step. The loudspeaker
panel has to be removed for this. See my page Peugeot2/loudspeaker
panel on how to do this.
The driver's door cables must be connected
in the same manner, and if the passenger door switch option is used
then the cables must be passed to the passenger side.
I used a separate fuse positions, on the
fuse panel, for the passenger door and the drivers door. You
don't want the two to fail if there are problems in one door.
23. This instruction is blank, there are
no instructions for position 23. perhaps my instructions above
would have been included here.
It is now time to check the installation
and your cable connections, are they all as the schematic drawing? If
so, connect the negative terminal of the battery, and now check the
electrical functions from the switch. Correct if not.
24. Having completed the above, this
instruction suggests you select the black rigid sleeve tube
which will go into the door panel, old handle position.
Rigid Sleeve for the door panel.
Again a number of Options from the kit.
It is at this point I enlarged the hole as
instructed in No. 2. You have options to fit in position different
sizes. The problem with this is, if you have chosen an option that is
too short, then replace the panel on the door, you then have to
remove the door panel to change it. This not an option on the Boxer,
as to remove the panel is a major job in it self, due to it's very
secure fittings, and the possible damage that can be caused to the
hard board which the panel is made from. As I found to my cost!
I chose to fit the longer rigid sleeve
tube to cover the 'Window Crank'[ The instructions previously refer
to this as the reduction gear, it now refers to it as the 'Window crank']
When the door panel was fitted to the
door, with the longer sleeve tube. I was then able to determine the
required length of the tubed sleeve and cut it to length with a small
hack saw. Eliminating the need to remove the door panel.
25. This instructs you to fit the cover
retainer over the rigid tubed sleeve, before fitting to the door. I
advise you do not do this for the reasons I have given in No. 24,
i.e. until the door panel is fitted to the door.
point, it is time to check and re-check the window function.
tidy up the cables and cable tie the cables neatly through out the
installation. Ensure the cables don't foul other parts and not
resting on sharp edges.
Fit the door
panels back in position on the doors. When back in place, check the
black rigid tubed sleeve for correct length, and cut it back using
the cover retainer as a template, i.e. measure the inner length of
the cover and cut the sleeve to approximately same length. Then place
it on the rigid tubed sleeve and ensure it is neat against the door panel.
26. This refers to the reasons why the
resistive cable is fitted, and to ensure it is not coiled, as
resistive cables when coiled and drawing current get hot. [This
instruction should be placed sooner! possibly when the motor is fitted.]
That is the installation complete. You
will find when the door switch is operated, the motor does not have a
stop position, when the window is down. It relies on you to
take your finger off the switch, to stop current through the motor.
If the switch is held on, then the motor is in a 'Jammed' condition
and drawing current, thereby getting hot!
Since the installation I have found that
the fuse in the Fuse box position 12 - N, which feeds the
passenger window, has been 'Blowing' when the motor is driving the
window upwards. Checking the current I found it is taking more than
15 Amps with extra torque, on the upward motion. No problem with the
down motion. I have replaced this fuse for a 25Amp as
recommended in the installation instructions.
See the fuse positions: Click
This will have no effect on the other
functions of this fuse, as it only feeds the horn.