PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr Diesel Engine Page 7


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Our Motorhome has been sold

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Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome.

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The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109228 on day of sale.

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1.  Electric Windows Winder Switching - Installation. 2. Schematic Drawing 3. Door Switches
4. Removing dash panels 5. Fuse Box  6. Rigid Sleeve Tubes 7. Installation Instructions

Peugeot Boxer - Electrical Switch Operated Windows Winders Modification

[Click on all icons for a larger picture]

     When I suggested to my wife that Electrically operated windows winders might be a good idea, her response was, the window winding lever on the Boxer was awkward, and very hard to use with it's opposite direction motion, and it was a good suggestion. Especially at French toll booths. That settled it.

     The electric window modification is basically removing the 'Armstrong' lever handle method and replacing it with a reduction gear and electric motor. Controlled by switches. 

     An order was made with M8 Auto-Tec Ltd of Paisley, in Scotland, who advertise in the Motorhome Motorcaravan Monthly [MMM] magazine in the UK. Tel: 0141 887 8777

Below is information Kindly received from Mick Hopkins, 10thMar. 2006

The Electric window kit...Made by sempal, the firm you bought yours from, has been taken over and now does mainly body kits and radios for the lads!!! the kit is available from Sempal by mail order,  site address is Telephone No. 0870 145 3939 the std. kit is £104.95 or the deluxe kit with a more powerfull motor £123.95 all inc. VAT.
The web site has now closed down June 2016

This information gratefully received from Mick.


     The kit of parts came with almost every variation of car installation possible. For example the drive gear came with 12 varieties to move the winding mechanism, I was able to find one for the Boxer with no problem. 

Electric windows

Electric Windows

Kit of parts picture

Kit of Parts

     After the work was complete, an intermittent switch required a phone call to the manufacturer, who produced a replacement overnight:

     Having worked in the Electronics industry for almost 30 years, now retired. I found it easier to service equipment if I knew how it worked. This usually meant perusing the handbooks and components. This I did with my project and came up with this web page.

     The switches are unique, I have included their internal drawing for ease of servicing and fault finding.

Switch photo

Type of switch used

Switch spades image

Tag view of the switch used

Interior view of switch

Internal drawing  view of switch

     I would think this electric window modification would be done by a confident DIY mechanic.  There's a lot of wiring to install with it's inherent mechanical work, this required taking down the front dash panels and the door panels.

      I produced the electrical drawing, which includes the internal working of the switches here:

 Switching Circuit Diagram of the Electric Windows 

[Select for larger image]

Revised Drawing of electric windows

       The side light supply feed is shown, as in the original instructions. This supplies the internal lamp. I did not use this function, as in our car the windows switch, does not have an internal light and is something we have not missed. This also reduces the complication of cables when installing. The other problem is; If you rely on the lamp, then it fails, a new switch will be required!

       While carrying out the modification, one or two of the instructions left me puzzled, but they soon fell into place when the work was in progress.

     The windows had always been very hard to operate, so the first job was to find out the reason. It is no point installing electric windows then have the motors burn out because the windows were sticking.

     Having taken off the door panels and the insulation underneath, Ensure the flimsy insulation material is taken off with care. It is an important part of the door draught and panel protection, also any damp getting into the door. A proper door panel 'Pry Bar' removing tool is useful for this job.  I produced a 'U' shaped tip from a large screwdriver, which allowed me to get under the firtree type panel securing devices. Pry bars are now readily available.

Door Ready for Modification

     It was clear to see the winding mechanism had never been greased by the factory.  So this was the first thing to do.  I greased up the sliding mechanism, the flexible wire and pulleys using silicon grease, which has better sliding properties. I then sprayed the window runners with furniture silicon polish spray.  This has been suggested in the DIY magazines as being ideal for this purpose. Having done all that the windows now opened very much easier, using the door handle.

Above shows the vertical window slider, already greased

Above shows the vertical window slider and cable sleeve, already greased

Above shows the vertical window slider, already greased

     To install was very much a case of following the instructions. Importantly, I disconnected the battery negative terminal before starting.

     I found the securing bolts of the original handle winding mechanism fouled the kit Reduction gearing, due to their length, by pushing it out, causing the reduction gear to protrude to far out into the interior. [See the above 'Door Ready' image] This could probably cause a protrusion in the door panel. The solution was to place some spacing washers behind the bolts reducing the visible length. The length made was just enough to secure the nut. I preferred this, rather than cutting them short. See the illustration below

Spacers fitted to winding mechanism to stop bolts protruding onto door panel.

    Next, with the tubular spacers provided, I was then able to secure the reduction gear around the winding mechanism.

The Reduction Gear for each window

The items of Reduction Gear for each window

Reduction gear fitted to the handle winding mechanism

The reduction gear is not protruding above face of door

See how reduction gear is fitted to the handle winding mechanism

     The width of the Boxer door made the fitting of the motor very easy. I placed it near the bottom as this eliminated any bends in the drive cable of the reduction gearing, and also this position was more than clear of the window winding mechanism which has quite a long drop.  Do not place the motor at the very bottom as any water ingress could damage it.

     Ensure the resistive Cables are attached to each motor. This is important as they reduce the excessive current passed to the motors should the system become faulty.  This happened to me once, a faulty switch passed current continuously to the electric wipers  motor, when the wiper blades stuck on a dry windscreen. This burnt out the motor.

     The resistive cable will control maximum current to the motor and hopefully control the excess current, as there is no stop function on the motor. When the window is in the locked position at the top or bottom, the function switch will still pass current to the motor in it's stationary position.

The drive cable to motor located at the bottom of the door

The drive cable to motor located at the bottom of the door

     The installation instructions give you options, use two switches, one on each door, or three switches, one on the passenger door and two on the drivers door. the second on the drivers door is a duplicate passenger door switch. [Very handy when driving on the continent.] While the two switch option makes for easier installing, I opted for the 3 switches. This for convenience when travelling. The switches operate on a rocker movement. Forward position for window up, and the rear position for window down, as indicated on the switch face.

   In the Boxer cab, the door pulling handles have apertures incorporated for electric window switches. The drivers door had a square aperture which was just the right size for the two switches, a little easing with a file made them a good fit.

     The passenger door had a similar sized aperture, so a plate was produced to hold the one switch.

Passenger Door Switch

Drivers Door Switches

     The most difficult part was the installation of the cables. The Boxer door and pillar has holes already manufactured for the cables. The problem was the door pillar, there did not seem any  natural access from this hole to the van interior. I eventually removed the interior light door pillar switch, which is about 30cm above. This allowed me to pull the cables from the door up, and then transfer the cables from this position to the interior, above the vehicle interior road spring housing. As the kit did not have enough cable for the Boxer I had to purchase more. I ensured it was suitable for a car with flexible properties required for the pillar, and also for the current taken by the motor.

     See the images below which displays how I fed the cables through the door pillar.

How to remove Dash Panel

[Click for larger image]

Method used to pass cables into interior of van

Passing cables through

Cables at the door handle switch aperture

The completed job

     The cables from the pillar were hidden behind the noise insulation panels inside the cab. 

     The positive feed cables were taken to the fuse panel, and an empty spade was used which had a permanent battery voltage, as per the instructions. I am reconsidering this option! Perhaps placing the operating voltage on the ignition key ’Parking On’ position. This was considered as when the battery was reconnected to check the completed installation, the passenger window immediately opened!  This was due to a faulty door switch sticking in the down position.  This is not good for security as this could happen when the vehicle is parked up.


Fuse box where cable was tapped off.

The Drivers door fuse, first from the right.  Passenger door fuse is second from the right.

Fuse box Below.

Interior indicator fuse plate

Fuse panel with fuse values and functions indicated.

Fuse panel with fuse values and functions indicated.  Fuse 12N has been replaced with a 25Amp. Due to the extra torque of the motor, on the upward motion of the window, taking more current and blowing the 10 Amp fuse.

One of the last items of the installation was to enlarge the original handle hole in the door panel, and place in position a rigid tube with cover, from the installation kit,  this is to blank off the old handle hole and to cover the reduction gear which had replaced it.

Door Panel with added Rigid tube

Door Panel with Rigid Tube cover

Door Panel Completed.
Looks neat!

      We are completely happy with the electrically controlled windows, they work very well.

    As a DIY mechanic, the installation took me 3 days to complete, 5 hours each day.

     I can thoroughly recommend this kit and is proving to be very reliable in use over the last 15 years.

     After 3600 miles through France, Spain, Portugal and innumerable Toll booths, when my wife operated the windows there was a sigh of relief, usually with the comment; "This is one of your better modifications to the van!"

     The electric windows have given us first class service through out our tours through Europe in the summers of 2003/2016.

Installation Instructions

     I have included the instructions here, with notes as they applied to me during installation, on the Peugeot Boxer:

The instructions give very poor images as you progress. The above photos will perhaps make it clear, and the drawings I produced below.

Exploded view of parts

Exploded view of the parts to the handle winding mechanism.

1. Remove the window winding handle. This can be tricky on the Boxer.  Push the round base trim back into the door, away from the handle. Underneath you see a type of circlip around the winding shaft, holding the handle in position - I produced a hook from high tensile antenna wire - hook this around the circlip. at the same time holding back the round base trim. When you start to pull the circlip back to remove it, hold it with a long nose pliers. Or, as happened with me it sprung out, and I had to grovel on the floor for it. Although it is not needed any more, I always assume parts will be needed. As items I throw away are always wanted the next day.

2. The instructions suggest you make the door handle hole in the panel larger, to accommodate the reduction winding mechanism. Again being a fatalist, just in case things did not work out, I left this to the last.

3. This instruction mentions checking the condition of the window mechanism. I believe this should come under my narrative above, about making sure the windows are not stiff and to free them if they are.

4. Choose a suitable splined adaptor from the kit, slide it over the shaft and secure it. I chose an adaptor which covered the hole shaft, so as to reduce the torque in the splined position of the shaft.

There is no screw method of securing the Splined adaptor on the Boxer, only the indent in the shaft. as there is no provision in the kit for this,  my adaptor it is not secured. But in practice the adaptor is proving to be very secure. If it proves troublesome, watch this space for a cure.

Splined Adaptor

Splined adaptor which does all the work of winding!

5. After fitting the adaptor use the original screw to secure it.
See my comments in No. 4.

6. Choose one of the three sleeves from the kit.
On the Boxer I had to use the longest splined sleeve. [This was slightly longer than the adaptor, so later when all was assembled, I cut it down to a suitable length, just short of the adaptor.]

Rigid Sleeve place over the Adaptor

Splined Sleeve

7. Having chosen a splined sleeve for the adaptor, I placed it into the reduction gear, as per the instructions,  from the side without a metal plate strengthener. This is done before it is placed on the door.
Without any other instruction, I did this as the selected splined sleeving fitted flush with the reduction gear frame, giving no protrusion to bulge the door panel.

Reduction Gear waiting for the Splined Sleeve

Reduction Gear ready for the Splined Sleeve,
fitted to the other side as opposed to the image shown.

8. This instruction gives a caution about using the reduction gears for different rotations of the window handle. i.e. anti clockwise or clockwise, they are marked A or B.

I could not see why this was so, but I tried to follow the instruction.

9. Attach the rubber sponge to the reduction gear on the side coming into contact with the metal service.
This is probably to reduce any rumble being amplified by the door. This sponge is a bit flimsy, I would like to have had a firmer sponge rubber. As it so happens the reduction gear does not come into contact with the door, due to the pillars fitted.

10. Next instruction is to fit and place the electric motor in a suitable position.
The Boxer has a very wide door,  it was easy to find a position which would not foul the window when at it's lowest point.
I fitted it almost at the bottom. making sure there was clearance in case any water did get in to the door cavity. On my vehicle I am lucky no water penetration was evident. This fitting also ensured the cable from the reduction gear to the motor had no sharp bends which eliminated any binding.

12 volt motor at base of door

Image of motor installed

Electric motor in a suitable position


11. This instructs you to attach the small sponge rings to the motor.
Again this is to reduce the rumble from the motor being sent into the door frame. I had some rubber sheeting in my workshop so I added that to the motor frame, as I felt the sponge was too flimsy and would break through very quickly in use.

12. This again instructs you to attach more sponge. Probably the outer edge nearest the outer skin of the door.
Which seems to duplicate the instruction in 11, or perhaps to stop any movement on the outer door panel.

13. This is where we attach the reduction gear to the door handle winding mechanism.

On the boxer I found it more suitable 'Outside the Door Skin' which is the side nearest to the hardboard door panel. It will also be easier to maintain at a future date if required.

Fit the reduction gear over the splined adaptor, note the position, and punch point the position on the door with a centre punch drill start.
Drill a hole suitable for the self tapping screws from the kit.
Again place the reduction gear over the splined adaptor, use a suitable length spacer, from the kit, and secure the reduction gear squarely. Using one screw support at his moment, do not tighten.

14. Next place the 'Y' shaped bracket on the inside edge, of the reduction gear, use a spacer and secure the second self tapping screw. Again making sure the screw and spacer holds the reduction gear squarely on the shaft. You might have to place a washer under the pillar of screw number one, to take up the extra space used by the 'Y' bracket.

Do the same for the third hole, securing the 'Y' bracket and spacer. don't tighten up the screws until the three are in place. ease up each screw alternately. Only when each is firm, tighten up completely, making sure the reduction gear is square on the winding mechanism.

It is now possible to wind the reduction gear cable by hand, or you can use a pliers, but be careful, as the end of the cable could be pinched, then it would not be able to position it inside the motor.

The above instruction will determine if the reduction gear is binding. If you have difficulties here rectify the problem before going any further.
As the electric cables are not connected at this point, I then tested the fittings by using a battery drill, attaching to the winding flexible steel cable, then wound the window down, this again ensured the reduction gear was not binding.

I assume the 'Y' shaped bracket is to secure the reduction drive in position, and not strain the securing pillar self tapping screws, which hold the reduction drive in position.

So after placing and securing the drive and 'Y' bracket, drill and secure the 'Y' bracket to the door, with a self tapping screw.

15. This informs you,   about ensuring the above instructions have been completed.

16a. Gives you an option to place the reduction gear inside the door 'Skin'. In the Boxer I felt this would obstruct the window as it wound down. I found the installation on the outer skin to be satisfactory and did not foul the hardboard door panel when placed back in position.

17. Instructs on using the template for installation. I think this instruction should be placed in the No. 7 position.

18.  I was not able to determine what this instruction meant!

19. A template is provided to enable the motor to be mounted. Use it if you prefer and mount the motor at the base of the inner skin, with two bolts from the kit.

I think this instruction should be placed in the No. 10 position.

I used a thin rubber membrane between the motor and the door panel to reduce any rumble transfer.

20. This instruction advises drilling the door and pillar for the cables. This is not required in the Peugeot Boxer, as the facilities for cables are built in with grommets provided.

21. Take the door and pillar grommets out, and cut a hole in them to accommodate the cable sleeving. Not too large or draught and wind whistle could occur later.  Insert the cables through this assembly, then into the vehicle interior. The sleeving diameter provided was not large enough, so I replaced them with pieces I had in my 'Junk' box

[ See the narrative and photos above on how I did this procedure]

22. This instruction gives you the option to use templates to enable door panel holes, for the switches.
This is not required in the Boxer as there are blanked off apertures in the door pulling handle for switches.

It is at this point the instructions do not mention that cables for the switches have to be prepared for the door handle, and the cables have to fed to their respective positions.

Connect up the door switches with the cables using fittings supplied.

Note: The connectors for the switch tags are very tight. Take care. If you push too hard it will push the switch spades into the body of the switch. This in turn damages the switch.

Fit the passenger door positive cable to the fuse box, the negative cable can be fitted to the earth point, found inside the vehicle near the point where the interior wheel arch swings down to the door step. The loudspeaker panel has to be removed for this. See my page Peugeot2/loudspeaker panel on how to do this.

The driver's door cables must be connected in the same manner, and if the passenger door switch option is used then the cables must be passed to the passenger side.

I used a separate fuse positions, on the fuse panel, for the passenger door and the drivers door. You  don't want the two to fail if there are problems in one door.

23. This instruction is blank, there are no instructions for position 23. perhaps my instructions  above would have been included here.
It is now time to check the installation and your cable connections, are they all as the schematic drawing? If so, connect the negative terminal of the battery, and now check the electrical functions from the switch. Correct if not.

24. Having completed the above, this instruction suggests you select the black rigid sleeve tube which will go into the door panel, old handle position. 

Rigid Sleeve for the door panel.
Options from the kit

Rigid Sleeve for the door panel.
Again a number of Options from the kit.

It is at this point I enlarged the hole as instructed in No. 2. You have options to fit in position different sizes. The problem with this is, if you have chosen an option that is too short, then replace the panel on the door,  you then have to remove the door panel to change it. This not an option on the Boxer, as to remove the panel is a major job in it self, due to it's very secure fittings, and the possible damage that can be caused to the hard board which the panel is made from. As I found to my cost!

I chose to fit the longer rigid sleeve tube to cover the 'Window Crank'[ The instructions previously refer to this as the reduction gear, it now refers to it as the 'Window crank']
When the door panel was fitted to the door, with the longer sleeve tube. I was then able to determine the required length of the tubed sleeve and cut it to length with a small hack saw. Eliminating the need to remove the door panel.

25. This instructs you to fit the cover retainer over the rigid tubed sleeve, before fitting to the door. I advise you do not do this for the reasons I have given in No. 24, i.e. until the door panel is fitted to the door.

     At this point,  it is time to check and re-check the window function. tidy up the cables and cable tie the cables neatly through out the installation. Ensure the cables don't foul other parts and not resting on sharp edges.

     Fit the door panels back in position on the doors. When back in place, check the black rigid tubed sleeve for correct length, and cut it back using the cover retainer as a template, i.e. measure the inner length of the cover and cut the sleeve to approximately same length. Then place it on the rigid tubed sleeve and ensure it is neat against the door panel.

26. This refers to the reasons why the resistive cable is fitted, and to ensure it is not coiled, as resistive cables when coiled and drawing current get hot. [This instruction should be placed sooner! possibly when the motor is fitted.]

That is the installation complete. You will find when the door switch is operated, the motor does not have a stop position, when the window is down. It  relies on you to take your finger off the switch, to stop current through the motor. If the switch is held on, then the motor is in a 'Jammed' condition and drawing current, thereby getting hot!

Since the installation I have found that the fuse in the Fuse box  position 12 - N, which feeds the passenger window, has been 'Blowing' when the motor is driving the window upwards. Checking the current I found it is taking more than 15 Amps with extra torque, on the upward motion. No problem with the down motion.  I have replaced this fuse for a 25Amp as recommended in the installation instructions.

See the fuse positions: Click here
This will have no effect on the other functions of this fuse, as it only feeds the horn.

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