The original fault, I suspect, was the back pressure of the water, affecting the gas jet and in turn turning off the control.

    Should the burner assembly require removing, due to a fault condition. Then the Two screws securing the assembly are removed and the assembly pulled out. Remember to turn off the gas before carrying out this proceedure. Also at the back of the gas input, note the rubber seal. this can easily be lost.

An interesting web site which explains all regarding gas:

Customer Services for Carver spares:
Leisureshopdirect Ltd
Mullacott Industrial Estate, 

EX34 8PS

Phone: +44 (0)845 4300325

Wanderer Motorhome Page 18

Driving in France?
Then this web site is a must:

email Brian,

Environmentally Safe Toilet Treatment for motorhomes, caravans and boats:

For a Holiday with a difference in a Motorhome, see this link:

Great Ormond Street Hospital
Children's Charity 
Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
Tel: 020 7239 3000 
Click on the link to donate

As author and maintainer of this web site. I do not save, retain, or sell  any email addresses of those who email me. Should you not get a reply from me, please send again, I might have missed it in my spam catcher!

Additions to Motorhome pages:-
1.Fitting New Automatic Water System Pump
2.Winterising the water pump.
3.Water Tank Level Meter-modification to electronic circuit

4.Basin Mixer Taps - tip & how to repair a dripping tap.
5.Extending Fresh Water Drain Tap to Outside

To Speed up page loading, images are shown as a 'Thumbnail.' Clicking on these will show the complete image

To home page







































Our MH has now been sold so this web site will not be updated again

[click above for pictures]

Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome,  and has now been sold.

Description of the motorhome can be seen through out the pages of my web site here.

The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109224


1. Getting ready for touring & Preparing for the Spring/Summer season. 
2.  Checking Pump & Water Heater
3. Drawing off the Water System in the Wanderer.
4. Fresh Water Tank Problem.
5. Disinfection and Purification of water
6. Water Pump Fault.
7. Winter preparation
8. Carver Water heater
9. Truma Heater 3000 Gas Consumption
10. The Carver Mk II Vacuum Release Valve fault & repair
11. Carver Water Heater Fault


I have included here information, and getting ready for touring from the Caravan Club magazine. 

This is copyright information of the Caravan Club.

 If the Motorhome has not been used during the winter then a number of things should be done before using it.

A check or service the engine, etc., would be advisable, as seen on Page 8 of the Peugeot section of this site.

The gas cylinders and pipes should be checked. Especially the connecting pipes to the cylinders. Any pipes dated more than 2 years are recommended to be changed.
Connect up to the AC mains and check the RCD trip control, which is in the wardrobe of the Wanderer. Does it activate when you press the red trip button?
Check the convector gas heater, does it light?
Check the Fridge, on gas, AC mains, and 12volts. For the enthusiast the fridge should be checked by an Corgi Technician every two years. See my page on how to change a gas fridge burner. Gas burner change
Check the Water heater, on gas and AC mains electric.
Check the Caravan for Damp. See my other page on advice.
Check the tyres for cracks and pressure, don't forget the spare wheel.

For Caravan Club Members the Hints & Tips Pamphlets, which can be downloaded in PDF format, are very useful.


1. Fill fresh water tank.
2. Open HOT water tap.
3. Switch pump on. Wait for the hot water heater tank to fill and expel from hot tap.
    If the hot tap splutters, and does not improve the flow, then the heater tank has an air lock.
   Turn pump off.
   Turn off taps
    Go to the CARVER heater cover outside, turn the release valve 1/2 a turn to allow air to release
    At the bottom left of the cover, unscrew the drain until the water comes out. Lock it up but not tight, just enough    to allow a dribble of water.
    Turn on the pump go outside and ensure the release valve has purged itself of air.
    Secure the release valve and the drain screw.
    The hot taps should now have a flow of water.      

4. When hot tap OK, close and open cold tap when water seen go to 5.
5. Open both taps.
6. Check and ensure the water is seen at all taps in the Motorhome.

When the taps have been turned off.  It is prudent to check all water pipe joints, especially those that are secured with Jubilee clips.  This can be a chore but it is very important to trace all water pipes through out the Motorhome, hot and cold to ensure there are no leaks, as the pipes are at a high pressure all the time when the taps are off.
The pump on most Motorhomes is pressure operated and is turned off by the water pressure.  This can be very high and is a constant high pressure when water is in the pipes.  If you have any joints in the water pipes it is after a winter of idleness when leaks will show up.
On one occasion we were half way through France, on our way to Spain, to find the jubilee clip to the sink cold water was leaking.  A sure indicator of leaking joints, you will hear the pump rumble for a second or two.
Water heater:

1. Fill the fresh water tank.
2. Switch water heater on at the Carver control panel. [ The AUX switch on the ZIG panel controls the carver heater}
3. Make sure water flows from the HOT taps.
4. Make sure water flows from the COLD taps.
5.Check gas is on and 12 volts indicator is on. [Green lamp ]
6. If Red and Green lights turn on, the start of heater has failed.
7. Switch off, then on again after a delay of about 3 minutes.
8. If the heater has a mains element then it's automatic. The electric heater uses about 3 amps.

Also see Spring check: wan6.htm


Drawing of the Wanderer Water System

Water system in Wanderer


Note the "Y" junction from the water pump, while not used in the Wanderer, it is recommended to ensure an even flow to taps and shower. It has been reported the shower cannot be controlled properly if not fitted, by being too cold.


Disinfection and Purification of water.

See this web site for information on water tank problems.

A summery from their web site is below

Etn. C. Beeckman N.V. is specialised in the disinfection and purification of water. Its applications include horticulture and industry (production of drinking water, beverages, preparation of process and production water, waste water processing, etc.

A full range of products is available for disinfection of water stored in tanks, or for water consumption while on holiday.

Certisil Combina

In Southern and Eastern Europe and the tropics, water from springs and wells contains large amounts of bacteria and other pathogens. Certisil Combina disinfects water, tanks and pipes and preserves drinking water for up to six months by means of chlorine and silver ions.

Certisil Argento

Drinking water in Western, Central and Northern Europe does not contain many bacteria or pathogens.
Certisil Argento, which is based on silver ions, preserves the water and prevents reinfection for six months.

Certinox TankClean / TankFresh

Certinox TankClean removes algae and bacterial deposits on the inside of the water tank using active oxygen. TankFresh uses citric acid to remove musty smells, bad taste and calcium on water tanks, pipes and pumps. Silver ions protect against reinfection in both products.

SlimeEx / AntiFreeze

Food residues, fats and hair form a residue in the waste water tank that often creates a bad odour.
Certinox SlimeEx completely solves this problem using active oxygen and fat solvents, and disinfects at the same time. In winter Certinox AntiFreeze protects pipes and pumps against frost damage using glycol and against bacterial deposits using silverions.


Fresh Water Tank Problem

Fresh Water Tank


At the point marked " Kink Position" in the above drawing, it is wise to check this pipe as it is connected to the fresh water tank with a Jubilee clip. On my Motorhome this clip was loose and leaking water. This point is difficult to see on the Wanderer, due to the Gas heater in front. It is a permanent structure in front of the tank, and below the wardrobe.

I was able to carry out the checks and repairs by removing the wardrobe hinged floor shelf.

While carrying out this check, I found the pipe going around the corner of the tank, from the tank outlet, had kinked, drastically reducing the flow to the taps via the pump. I cut this kink out and replaced it with a pipe corner piece.

The problem with trying to solve the kinked pipe at this position was; I had to use a further 2 Jubilee clips. This has introduced extra maintenance checking!


Recent Email - Water Pump Fault

Dear Brian. 

I have found and enjoyed reading the information on your site about your Wanderer.

 We have just bought one and are complete novices, this being our first Motorhome. Ours is a 1997 version, has only done 14K, but the water pump doesn't work. If I switch it on it makes a noise, but the water can be heard "gurgling" in the pipes to the taps, and either nothing appears, or the taps merely spit water at intervals. Have you had such problems? A colleague says that the diaphragm is probably perished. Grateful for any information you might have.

Regards. Richard.

My Reply:

Hi Richard,

Many thanks for taking the trouble to acknowledge my site. It's nice to know someone finds it useful.

Congratulations on you new purchase. I'm sure you will have as much pleasure as us. We never did any caravaning before our purchase. At 14k miles it is in new condition.

You are probably in my situation. To far from the dealer for warranty work!

Regarding the web site, I did feel there must be many who would find my experiences useful.

OK, your problem. This is quite usual after a long lay up, and the water has been drained down for the winter.

Have you seen my recent insertion regarding 'Starting up' after a winter layoff? 

See:  Checking pump and water heater.

Regarding the problem! This a typical case where the pump is drawing air, and is unable to prime itself. You have to get the pump to immerse itself with water before it can pump against the pipes and tap pressures.

How to test, ensure you have looked at the above sites for hints.

First a simple fault cure.  Fill tank with fresh water. Turn on the pump, then suck on a convenient open tap! This drags the water through hopefully.

Next the comprehensive cure!

1. Ensure the water tank is empty and the ZIG panel fuse switches are off . The tank can be emptied by opening the drain tap, which is located at the base of the tank, inside the wardrobe.

2. At the pump, take off the pipe which is nearest the water tank.

3. Blow into the pipe towards the tank, you are trying to make sure the pipe to the fresh water tank is clear.

4. Take off the filter housing which is attached to the pump, you previously removed the pipe from it. check the metal gauss is clear of debris.

5. Replace the filter gauss and housing .

6. Replace the pipe to the filter housing.

7. Fill the fresh water tank.

8. Have plenty of rags and a container for this test. remove the pipe from the exit side of the pump. watch out for leaking water.

9. Attach a pipe to the pump exit. I found garden hose could be used for this test. secure it with a jubilee clip.

10. Place this hose into the container. Ensure it is secure as there's a lot of water pressure.

11. Turn on the pump at the ZIG panel.

12. The pump will now activate and start pumping the water out.

13. If it does not, keep turning the pump on and off. If after this it doesn't work then I would say you have a problem.

14. If it pumps water out. Then turn off the ZIG panel switch, replace the original pipe, open all taps.

15. Turn on the ZIG panel switch and allow all taps to exude water until spurting stops.


Water Pump

WEater pump in the wanderer, click to enlarge

Water pump in the Wanderer.
Click for larger image and some notes on the installation of the pump.


See this link for added information on winterising your motorhome:

As CARVER have been taken over by TRUMA, here is an useful address:

TRUMA (UK) Ltd ,Truma House , Eastern Avenue , Burton-upon-Trent , Staffs ,DE13 OBB . TELEPHONE : 01283 511092


It is recommended that the water heater be drained during any unused periods.
1. Open all taps and allow the pump to empty the fresh water tank.
2.Drain the heater tank by removing the plug which is situated on the lower left of the external Carver heater exhaust panel. If you have a breather on the Carver panel then unscrew a quarter turn until it is tight. While tight this is in the open position, allowing easier draining. Leaving the plug unscrewed will allow frost to expand.
3. Drain pipes internally, by removing at the lowest point.  [ Rags and a small bowl are needed here]
4. Remove outlet hose on the pump, turn pump on and allow pump to drain pipes.  It is possible to blow the pipes from this point and ensure all are empty.  [ With taps open ]
5. When system dry attach the pump pipes.
6. Drain Thetford toilet cassette and clean out.
7. Drain down the Thetford toilet fresh tank. Operate the pump to ensure there are no residues inside it. Water inside the pump could split it during frosty weather.
8. Fit winter covers to the fridge vents.
9. Have a 6month service done, mainly to change the oil and filters. See my page 6months service.
10. Remove the fuse from the Leisure battery to eliminate drain.
11. Remove the vehicle battery, it's easier to charge in your workshop and it is a simple security measure. No battery, can't start.
12. If 11. not convenient, to remove battery, then make use of a solar panel charger. I take off the negative terminal, then place the solar panel direct to the battery. For those with ECU controlled engines, then it might not be  appropriate to remove battery terminals.

System is now ready for the winter. I usually leave all taps open as any freezing water will expand and pull off joints. Also remove wash basin shower head, and hang high. To ensure all water drains away from head and possible frost damage.

If the Motorhome is to laid up for any period. Don't use the hand brake to secure the wheels. The brake drum and discs will rust, except in the part which is hidden by the brake lining. This will cause uneven braking when next it is used. I chock mine with Breeze blocks on all wheels.

I run my Motorhome every fortnight, as recommended, to get oil into parts which drain away.  At the same time do some hard braking to remove rust from the front discs. It seems we Motorhomers are too soft on our brakes, this allows the discs to rust up. The Carver Expert.

Carver Cascade MK 2

As CARVER have been taken over by TRUMA here is an useful address:

TRUMA (UK) Ltd ,Truma House , Eastern Avenue , Burton-upon-Trent , Staffs ,DE13 OBB . TELEPHONE : 01283 511092

When the Motorhome is parked for any length of time, especially during the winter, the CASCADE heater/ boiler should be drained to prevent frost damage.

This can be done by releasing the drain plug  as indicated by the arrow in the drawing I've prepared.  The drain plug need not be remove completely as prongs hold it position for draining. The drain plug can be left in this open position.  For ease of draining the small screw top left can be opened a quarter of a turn to release the vacuum.    

It is recommended to open all taps and and shower head, while draining, to release anyDrain plug Carver Cover created vacuum in the system.  The draining can be very slow and should be left for at least 40 minutes. 

In the illustration can be seen the Vacuum Release screw, this should be turned for a 1/4 turn until you feel it is tight. It is then open. Strange as it may seem the valve is locked when the screw valve feels loose

If your Motorhome has a filter system ensure the pump is empty.  This might entail the removal of the pipes attached to the pump to check. If you have a filter cartridge installed ensure this has no water inside.

When preparing the Motorhome for use.  Fill up the fresh water tank,  close all cold taps and shower head. Turn on the 12 volt electrics to operate the pump. Allow the hot taps to remain open.  When the hot taps stop spurting turn off, then turn on the Cascade heater control panel.

If you find as I did after a winter being drained. The drain plug in the boiler cover started to dribble. The Drain edge on the carver boiler, had become pitted. I cleaned it with a small file, but still found it dribbled. It is no good tightening the drain plug to eliminate this problem as it is possible to crack the drain plug. I solved the problem by fitting another washer, the diameter of the drain plug shaft, in addition to the normal washer. The added washer does not go over the shoulder as the original fitted. The added washer fills the pitted spots and the original completes the seal. This can be seen in my sketches below. As Gary has mentioned below it could also be due to the pump, pumping at too great a pressure.
A recent discussion in a web site forum suggested the pitting could be due to the corrosive element of water sterilising agents, for e.g. Milton Fluids. 


Carver drain plugCarver drain plug washer mod


See Gary's useful web site for Carver parts:  Email:

Below is his description of The Carver Cascade 2 which he has kindly given permission to quote in my web site.

Many Thanks Gary.

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (660w 3amp to 970w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.

To operate the gas there is a wall switch with three lights, green amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green goes out being replaced by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times.

Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs. [Pops and bangs would indicate it needs a service, ] the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water, any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light, indicating a fault.

Forget the amber light, its to show low voltage and never works unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since.

The 240v immersion heater is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show its on, not that its working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have tripped

Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-reset able, but are repairable, later models have a little flap on the end of the plastic box. Switch off, remove screw pull back flap, behind is a red button, press to reset.

Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the Burner Module. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong, its a 5 minute job to replace it, either with a new or serviced exchange unit.

One other safety device is a wax filled plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 12mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner putting the flame out, this will render things safe, but will probably require a new module because its control circuitry will be faulty,. A point to note here is that over time the wax degrades or the threads leak allowing water to seep onto the burner, this will cause it to rust prematurely and eventually will require replacement of the whole burner module.

That in a nut shell as they say, is all there is to it. 


I have a cascade 2 water heater. Is it best to leave it on all the time, when on site, and on electric hookup,  or switch on and of one or two hours before needing hot water each time. Which is the most economic way of saving gas?

If it lights quietly without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), then switch on and forget it. They look after their selves whether run on gas or mains. Running on gas uses so little gas it is not worth bothering about.



The Carver Mk II Vacuum Release Valve

Carver Mk II Vacuum Release Valve.                                                                  CLICK FOR LARGER IMAGE

The Vacuum/pressure release valve seen above, is shown as taken out of the body assembly which is screwed into the Water heater.

This Vacuum Release valve, found at the top left of the water heater cover, can sometimes dribble water. This is due to the water pressure set up by the internal water pump to the taps. The cure for this fault is to reduce the pump pressure, or as in my case, take out the Vacuum Release Valve from it's main body and expand the spring so it is set longer by about 0.25 inches. 

It is found easier to remove and carry out this adjustment by taking off the ventilating cover first, as the valve is unscrewed by the centre body to release it.

Regarding my efforts to eliminate the leaking from the Vacuum/pressure release valve, prompted this response from Gary, see his web site:

3 June 2004

Reading through I did notice an error regarding the blow off valve now renamed 'quick drain valve' by 'Carver,' because it never blew off!!

Your advice about stretching the spring is therefore wrong as it is already too powerful. The valve will not operate below about 45psi, the more modern 12mm tie rod (with a 6mm thread down the middle), will have stretched permanently before this limit is reached.

The safe working pressure for the heater is 20psi so I only test them to 30psi .Any more and the tank will move back as the tie rod 'gives', giving permanent stretching and damage will occur, (yield point reached), at 40psi

I would say your  'Shurflo' pump is the problem, both the Shurflo and Whale pumps will give about 50psi and are often set to maximum when delivered, this must be adjusted down to suit the heater, not the other way round.

Hope YOU don't mind me saying this,



Regarding Gary's advice on adjusting the pump  pressure, see the image below on where this adjustment is made.



Pump Pressure Adjust.

I have since discovered this is not a pressure pump adjustment, but, an adjustment to the internal switch, and when it will turn on or off! For example after replacing the pump, I found it would click on and off after tap was turned off. Adjusting it to the right cured the problem. 


Carver Water Heater Plastic Relief valve and Drain Plug

Relief Valve seen top left


Close up of the damaged Relief Valve seen above top left

This device when aged can get very brittle and will produce splits which cause leakages around it causing mysterious water puddles around the cover.

Replacing it usually causes a breakage with frustrating methods of removal of the body. Here is a method found on some forum on how to remove a broken valve:

This is a known problem. I'm sure I've seen something about it on the net but I can't track it down, anyway I have a hints & tips page from an old MMM magazine with the following suggestion: heat up a large flat-bladed screwdriver on the hob then push it "gently but firmly" into the remains of the valve stem. Once it has gone in far enough (it says "the length of the blade" but that rather depends on the screwdriver) let it cool & "simply unscrew the valve". The same article says that a stud extractor doesn't work because the plastic expands under pressure & gets tighter. The alternative to the heated screwdriver is to drill out the stem & pick out the bits but it takes much longer. The hot screwdriver is claimed to take only a few minutes.

The same can be done for the larger drain plug.


Another "Gem" from Neils Web site:

Truma Heater 3000 Gas Consumption

From: Terry

Hi Bill 

According to the web page, the rated output of the Truma is 3400 watts while consuming gas at 285 grams per hour (g/h), it takes 35 mins to heat the water to 70c. If it is on for a total of 4 hours and off for a total of 2 hrs in a 6 hour period, then it would use 4 x 285 = 1140 grams

If the heater is around 3 kilowatts and has three settings, its possible that high will be 285 g/h, medium is 230 g/h and low 170 g/h. Then 6 hours on medium setting could use 1380 grams.

Two days running would use 1140g + 1380g x 2days = 5.04Kgs, so your 6Kg cylinder would be all but used up.

Regarding the gas pilot blowing out, I have had that problem when the wind was blowing into the air intake or exhaust, just moving the M/H cured the problem.

The gas not cutting off when the pilot light extinguishes is serious, the gas should cut off almost immediately the pilot light goes out, so the flame failure device needs to checked and perhaps replaced immediately.

I hope the above is useful Regards Terry 



As Mentioned in previous pages the following repair must only be done by a qualified gas engineer

After the winter layoff it is time to check the functions in the Motorhome.
Immediately I found the Gas Heater would not funtion.

After a number of tries pushing the control panel buttons. It was time to take off the Heater covers located at rear the near side.

The vent panel was taken off. Exposing the inside gas burner area.
I next took off the gas burner draught protector cover, exposing the gas burner box.

With my hand through the window, and pressing the gas button control inside the Motorhome,  I was able to turn on the gas and monitor the function. Immediately I could see the gas was being lit. This gave three function tests.

1. Gas from the gas bottle was getting to the burner.
2. The panel buttons controlling the gas valve ON, was functioning.
3. The gas jet was clear.

The problem could be seen as: the flame was almost immediately being turned off.

This indicated THREE faults;

1. The electronics controlling board was faulty and would be an expensive repair, even if an electronics panel was available for the now redundant CARVER water heater.
2. The flame burner box, comprising of a number of holes and inside it has a web of fine mesh wire.
3. The voltage from the leisure battery was not enough to maintain the required voltage for the circuit panel inside the turn on panel of the Carver heater.

I decided to do the easiest first, i.e. the flame burner box.

This work comprised taking off the flame burnerbox and its assembly.


To do this meant unscrewing the two Phillips screws behind the gas tube supply from the on gas valve. When removing the assembly caution must be made to make sure the rubber washer, located between the screws, is in good order. Any cracks of this washer could allow a gas leak from this area


Carefully removing the assembly, also means removing the electronics assembly box behind it, as a one piece.

Remove the electric supply control plug from the back of the electronics assembly, and place the assembly on the bench to work on.

It is now possible to remove the flame burner from the complete assembly, by undoing the flat head screws. Then unscrewing the side nuts which secure it to the frame.


When I was carrying out the above removal, I found the flame burner box was full of water! I suspect this came from boiler relief valve which I had left open in error when turning on the pump, while checking water to the taps. Water had sprayed over the burner box and filled it. I Cleaned the water out and blowing any further debris out. Using soft plastic I also probed the flame burner holes and ensured the holes were clear. Using a soft wire brush I also cleaned the top holed area of rust. This is to ensure the sparker would have a good earth contact to produce a spark on top of the burner.
If the burner requires changing then this information might be useful:

Markings on the burner case:

Part No. AC03/201600 12-96
Burner Carver

After reassembly the burner worked with no problems.

It was with a sigh of relief, I found the electronics assembly panel was functioning correctly.

Here the draught cover has been taken off for checking
Here the draught cover has been taken off for checking

Here the draught cover has been taken replaced

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