Wanderer Motorhome Page 23

Driving in France?
Then this web site is a must:

email Brian,

Environmentally Safe Toilet Treatment for motorhomes, caravans and boats:

For a Holiday with a difference in a Motorhome, see this link:

Great Ormond Street Hospital
Children's Charity 
Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
Tel: 020 7239 3000 
Click on the link to donate

As author and maintainer of this web site. I do not save, retain, or sell  any email addresses of those who email me. Should you not get a reply from me, please send again, I might have missed it in my spam catcher!

Additions to Motorhome pages:-
1.Fitting New Automatic Water System Pump
2.Winterising the water pump.
3.Water Tank Level Meter-modification to electronic circuit

4.Basin Mixer Taps - tip & how to repair a dripping tap.
5.Extending Fresh Water Drain Tap to Outside

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Our MH has now been sold so this web site will not be updated again

[click above for pictures]

Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome,  and has now been sold.

Description of the motorhome can be seen through out the pages of my web site here.

The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109224

To Page Links & Contents Index


1. SHUR-flo Fresh Water Pump in the Wanderer.

See page Wan18.htm for further information on the fresh water pump


3. Fitting a New Automatic Water System Pump

4. Winterising the Water Pump



It is recommended that the water heater be drained during any unused periods.
1. Open all taps and allow the pump to empty the fresh water tank.
2.Drain the heater tank by removing the plug which is situated on the lower left of the external Carver heater exhaust panel. If you have a breather on the Carver panel then unscrew a quarter turn until it is tight. While tight this is in the open position, allowing easier draining. Leaving the plug unscrewed will allow frost to expand.
3. Drain pipes internally, by removing at the lowest point.  [ Rags and a small bowl are needed here]
4. Remove outlet hose on the pump, turn pump on and allow pump to drain pipes.  It is possible to blow the pipes from this point and ensure all are empty.  [ With taps open ]
5. When system dry attach the pump pipes.
6. Drain Thetford toilet cassette and clean out.
7. Drain down the Thetford toilet fresh tank. Operate the pump to ensure there are no residues inside it. Water inside the pump could split it during frosty weather.
8. Fit winter covers to the fridge vents.
9. Have a 6month service done, mainly to change the oil and filters. See my page 6months service.
10. Remove the fuse from the Leisure battery to eliminate drain.
11. Remove the vehicle battery, it's easier to charge in your workshop and it is a simple security measure. No battery, can't start.

www.arcsystems.biz The Carver Expert.

the 'SHUR-flo' Fresh Water Pump in the Wanderer

The 'SHUR-flo' water pump<water pump>

Due to it's construction the pump is not a DIY reparable item

On my Motorhome the pump is located in the off side lounger, next to the wardrobe.

Here I have placed some information which might be of use to the fault finder.

A before and after water pump circuit diagram, which had to be done when the pump was changed. The change is the blue wire in second drawing on the right.

How the Water Pump is wired.

How the Water Pump was originally wired.

Recommended wiring arrangement for the Jabsco water pump.

See new installation instructions below.

The Fresh Water Pump in Place.
The cables in the above drawing can be seen.

The Fresh Water Pump in Place. The cables can be seen in the above drawing. The pump is fed through the resistor. This is not recommended.


The water pump obtains it's voltage from the ZIG panel pump ON switch. This voltage is placed on the Blue/Brown wire to the red cable, then to the pump switch and via the Resistor. This voltage is then fed to the pump, and to the Yellow wire, which is fed back to the Zig panel "Pump On" lamp. This voltage is on permanently while the zig panel is turned on.

The pump switch is activated by pressure which is inside the water pipes. No pressure then the switch turns the pump ON. Full pipes and pressure then the switch goes open circuit and turns the pump OFF.

The Resistor is placed in the voltage line to ensure excess current is not passed to the pump. This could occur if the pump is held on for example, with debris, current is still passing but it's not turning. This will cause the pump windings to burn out if not in place. While this is as installed by 'Autohomes' it does mean the current is passed through a heavy resistor, so it is not recommended by other pump suppliers. Having experienced a pump fault, I found the resistor did not blow a fuse to indicate a fault with the pump, as it controlled the max current. Which was less than the fuse rating. See the recommended alternative on the right hand side image above.

In my Motorhome this resistor was placed on the metal base of the pump, and secured with a metal clamp. Not a very good idea. If the metal securing clamp had cut into the resistor, this would have caused short circuit to the pump base. I have removed this clamp from the base and placed it on the van floor alongside the pump.

The In Line water filter can be unscrewed reasonably easy for cleaning. I do this at the beginning of the holiday season, but have found very little to clean out.

On the right of the pump can be seen the push on pipe connector. Ensure this is fully home. While taking this picture I noticed mine was slightly out. This could have caused a leak. I did have a leak elsewhere which could not be cured by pushing in. This coupling had to be replaced.

Sometimes when starting up after a long lay off the pump will not pump water. This a typical case where the pump is drawing air, and is unable to prime itself. You have to get the pump to immerse itself with water before it can pump against the pipes and tap pressures.

How to test, First a simple fault cure.  Fill tank with fresh water. Turn on the pump, then suck on a convenient open tap! This drags the water through hopefully.

Next the comprehensive cure! should the above fail.

1. Ensure the water tank is empty and the ZIG panel fuse switches are off . The tank can be emptied by opening the drain tap, which is located at the base of the tank, inside the wardrobe.

2. At the pump, take off the pipe which is nearest the water tank.

3. Blow into the pipe towards the tank, you are trying to make sure the pipe to the fresh water tank is clear .

4. Take off the filter housing which is attached to the pump, you previously removed the pipe from it. check the metal gauss is clear of debris.

5. Replace the filter gauss and housing .

6. Replace the pipe to the filter housing.

7. Have plenty of rags and a container for this test. remove the pipe from the exit side of the pump. watch out for leaking water.

8. Attach a pipe to the pump exit. I found garden hose could be used for this test. secure it with a jubilee clip.

9. Fill the fresh water tank.

10. Place the hose from no 8. into a container. Ensure it is secure as there's a lot of water pressure.

11. Turn on the pump at the ZIG panel.

12. The pump will now activate and start pumping the water out.

13. If it does not, keep turning the pump on and off quickly. If after this it doesn't work then I would say you have a problem.

14. If it pumps water out. Then turn off the ZIG panel switch, replace the original pipe, open all taps.

15. Turn on the ZIG panel switch and allow all taps to exude water until spurting stops.


Fitting New Automatic Water System Pump

     Its not until the water pump gave trouble that I even considered it. It started to become problematic at the most inconvenient moments while we were touring Sept 09. 

     My previous monitor panel indicator modification, displaying digital voltage and current, showed when the water pump was used; the voltage from the battery dropped and the current taken was 12 Amps!

     The leisure battery voltage was draining faster than normal. I had purchased a new 85Ah recently. I did some checking to find the Water pump was turning on and off automatically, without water being drawn, and taking 12 amps to operate. The ballast resister was burning the floor covering! See the picture, below the white fitting. The ballast resistor is seen hanging loose below left. As this is a wiring system installed by 'Autohomes' I did wonder on the suitability of this arrangement. See the circuit drawing above for before and after modifications.


 The SHURflo pump before removal

Old Pump in Situ

     All this happened while we were touring Southern France, in Sept. 2009.  I deduced the lacquer on the pump windings were deteriorating and shorting the windings, increasing the current taken. My Motorhome is 12 years old so it has given good service. A new one was needed.

     Calling into Motorhome dealers, I got the shrug, 'Non, Non.' I realised they were trying to match my original pump. A new one was urgently needed. We were travelling in the Camargue area where boot Marinas are everywhere. Where there are boats, all using similar plumbing to Motorhomes, then there are Boat Chandlers. Calling into the Boat Chandler, chantierMEF, Zone Tehnique du Port, 34 110 FRONTIGNAN,  near Sete, a very helpful lady was unable to obtain an exact replacement, but,  a new alternative pump overnight! This is service not even expected in the U.K.

     Having removed the pump from my Motorhome, it was an easy job to make a comparison of the new pump, before leaving the Chandler. The owner couldn't do enough to ensure I was purchasing the correct product for my needs, even though the pump was not similar to the old one, the ratings and connection fittings were comparable.

     The pump came with two pairs of matching  'Quick' connections, one for screw connections and one pair for pipe connections. So it is possible to have a pipe fitting one end and a screw fitting the on the other end. The 'Quick' connections are fitted by pushing into the pump frame, then secured by pushing a blue clip into the side of the connections to secure them. It became a case of taking off the permanent fittings and replacing with the new pump. It was that easy. A very satisfactory repair.

     Prior to removing the old pump, its last action was to drain the fresh water tank, by turning on the taps and filling the basins, which drained into the waste tank. After taking off the pump, I taped up the pipe from the fresh tank to ensure no water leaked over the floor, and did the same for the outlet pipe.


Jabsco pump in situ

New Pump Fitted in position
( I have since replaced this pump as I found it to be 'noisy' in action)

     Two packs of pipe quick connectors came with the pump, one pair for screw connections, which I fitted,  and the second for pipe connections, as can be seen in the plastic bag picture. In the new pump picture, can be seen the Blue push type clip, which secures the water pipe connector. What surprised me was the fitted connections seemed loose, flexing, but the fittings have never leaked. This ideal for those installations which never seem to go 'Square'

     The parts fitted to the pump ports, which suited my fittings were:

JABSCO part Model 30649-1000. s/n 09F25089.

Description 1/2- 14 straight quest threads X quad port fitting with EPOM O - rings


A set of the 'Quick''fittings


     The new pump came with a comprehensive list of instructions on how to fit it. These instructions would be suitable for a person who can handle basic tools. The change was simple and no leaks was experienced during the change or since. Frankly the only tool required would be a screwdriver to secure the pump to the floor and to secure the jubilee clip to the input filter. My outlet connector only required to be hand tight. 

     The pump incorporates an inner surge arrestor/expansion tank, 'Smooth Flow Design,' which stops spurting from the taps.  The pressure has been set by the manufacturer, but can be screw adjusted. This is done by taking off the  blue cap, seen at the base of the pump. Screw in, increases pressure, screw out reduces pressure. I found the manufacturers set pressure quite suitable for our water system. This system is similar to the old pump, as seen in the picture below.


The pressure adjust end of the SHURflo pump


Pressure Adjust end on the old pump. Which is similar to the Jabsco Pump.
Pump adjustment is not recommended by Jabsco, as it is set at the factory for optimum performance.

{ This is not a pressure adjust, it is adjusted for the amount of pressure produced by the pump to enable it to start }

     The ballast resistor, as fitted to the old pump, was retained as it controls the current and is an voltage isolator for the feed to the panel  LED indicator.

     The pump will easily run with the battery down to 10 volts, but the current increases. So one is not completely without a water system, when the battery discharges.

     The original pump operated at 1.1 bar max pressure, the new one operates at max 1.7 bar. The difference has not been noticed in service.  It had great lumps of rubber noise reducers underneath it, so I transferred these to the new pump to reduce pump noise. This has been quite effective. 

     The original 'faulty' pump caused the ballast resistor to run so hot it melted the floor covering underneath it. I refitted it onto a Hard board square, just in case it overheated again.

     While the instructions mentioned, for the new one, 'Not for continuous Duty.' I carried out a test of the new pump by filling the water tank, then run the taps until it was empty. The ballast resistor was barely warm through out the test and has operated reliably since!

     The instructions attribute the pump, 'able to operate running dry!' 

     Smooth flow capability, Self priming, noise absorbing mounts, 'Snap-fit' port fittings, built in accumulator - eliminating the pulsating effect, corrosion resistant materials. The self priming feature is very useful for those who drain down during the winter or layoffs. Non self priming pumps can try the patience when one brings the van out of storage.

     The instruction manual is very comprehensive and incorporates fitting drawings, also showing a number of accessories pairs available, for the snap in port system.  e.g. snap-in port X ½" - 14mm male screw pipe straight, Snap-in port X ½" -13mm hose barb straight, 

     The instructions show how to fit, including a typical wiring arrangement, whether into Motorhome or a boat. Exploded views make it easier for the more adept mechanic. Fitting instructions are shown with circuit diagrams and suggested advice.

     Also useful advice is given in the instruction sheet, on how to successfully winterise the pump. One I shall follow.

          The price was 99.80 Euros, close to the UK price including postage.

Winterising the Water Pump

     DO NOT USE ANTIFREEZE to winterise the water systems. It is highly TOXIC.

     Drain the fresh water tank, by opening taps and draining into the waste tank. Run the pump until all water has drained. Try not to use the pump for more than 15mins, or for long periods when it is dry.

     Try and drain the the pipes, on mine the installer has fitted a low down drain in the pipes which drains below chassis.

     The Jabsco pump has quick connect inlet and outlet fittings,  remove these.  Turn on pump to remove the dregs. Place rags uneath it to catch water dregs. The pump quick connectors can be left off during the winter.

     Ensure all taps are left open. If any water freezes it will expand out of the open taps.

      Useful information;

 [ I have no connection with the firms mentioned ];


31295-0092 12 Volts
Automatic Water System Pump

Bingley Road,
EN11 0BU
Tel; 01992 450145
Fax; 01992 467132
Web; www.jabsco.com

Chantier MEF
Zone Technic du Port,
Tel; +33 467 431 511
Fax; +33 467 431 679
Web; www.chantiermef.com
Email; mef.1@wanadoo.fr


     Since the above modification to the water pump change, I have been advised by JABSCO and Clive Mott- Gotobed, from the Motorhome Monthly Magazine. Which I have detailed below.

     As the article was to illustrate the ease of a change of the pump in an emergency situation. No modifications were made to the wiring of my Motorhome. It was a case of remove and install the new pump.

     Having investigated the wiring as installed, I found the 'Ballast' resistor was in series with the pump. So the current was going through the resistor before the pump. This in turn 'disguised' the fault, i.e. a short circuit in the pump. If this resistor had not been there the fuse would have blown in the panel, as it is designed to do.

     To carry out the suggestions by Jabsco and Clive Mott-Gotobed, I have produced a drawing of the original and a drawing of my modification. It can be seen the modified wiring is quite simple and is coloured in BLUE.

     Could this have been an error in the original installation?

     The ballast resistor has been retained as it produces a voltage feed for the panel 'PUMP ON' indicator. But, as Clive Mott-Gotobed suggests a smaller, lower power, value can now be used.

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