Wanderer Motorhome Page 5

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Then this web site is a must:

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Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
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Additions to Motorhome pages:-
1.Fitting New Automatic Water System Pump
2.Winterising the water pump.
3.Water Tank Level Meter-modification to electronic circuit

4.Basin Mixer Taps - tip & how to repair a dripping tap.
5.Extending Fresh Water Drain Tap to Outside

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Our MH has now been sold so this web site will not be updated again

[click above for pictures]

Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome,  and has now been sold.

Description of the motorhome can be seen through out the pages of my web site here.

The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109224

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Contents: Repairs to the Back wall of the Motorhome

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    Having purchased our Wanderer and found the back panel which is connected to the base frame had a quarter of inch gap,  which could be moved in and out when pressed by hand.  It was necessary to have this attended to as soon as possible as a bike rack had been fitted to the back wall by the previous owner.

    On a visit to my local caravan repair workshop, I was told there was nothing wrong and it was quite common to see walls in this condition,  and as it hadn't moved in the life of the Motorhome why bother! 

    The conclusion was obvious, this job was not profitable enough for the workshop.  So I asked the foreman if I was to do the job myself, what would be the best method?  This information he freely gave.

    The back panel had come away from the Coach builders glue because the interior wall covering had not been removed from the plywood glueing area.  Immediately the glue set the back wall stressed and gave way.  This must have happened within hours during factory construction and should have been picked up by the installation team or the final inspection.  Having seen the glue in place I decided the Manufacturer had intended this wall to be securely fixed in place.

    Checking the Warranty given with the vehicle on purchase, I noticed the small print which informed;  Manufacturers faults are not covered. This information meant that I had to do this work myself as the local caravan repairers weren't keen to do the work.

    I have been most unlucky with glues used over the years.  Glued parts falling apart was a regularity in my workshop. So not being able to purchase recommended Silkaflex Cartridge Sealants, I carried out some tests with other glues before starting out on the Motorhome repair.  

    I was able to obtain some “GRIPFILL” from my local DIY store. A Laybond product from Cheshire.  This glue claims to stick and fill gaps.   I glued some plywood together with a gap similar to my own repair.  This was left for a week and inspected. It was very firm and did not collapse as others had done when I tried to force it apart.  It also had some give in the gap which I had been informed would be required in a Motorhome.

Click for larger image

View of filled gap

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View of filled gap

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View of filled gap near side

    Feeling more confident I went under the van and cleaned out the wall covering which was all loose from the previous Manufacturers efforts. I then filled the whole gap from the off side to the near side.  This was a mistake as when I started the next day to clean out the wall covering in the gap from the inside, the “GRIPFILL” had set,  and I had to chip away the inside wall covering inch by inch with a half inch wood chisel.  I should have cleaned out the covering material from inside and underside in one go.  The only good thing about this experience  was the glue from the previous  day had set and had a rubbery feel and which took the movement of the Motorhome walls. This back wall panel also held firmly while I attacked the wall covering inside, which was encouraging.  The reason for all the work inside was due to the glue gun not piercing far enough into the joint to reach the top of the base plate inside the Motorhome,  while I carried out this work under the van.  This was no problem as the intention was to place a timber support across the inside wall to secure it to the base plate.  As had the Coachbuilder should have done to the underside.

    The timber supports were planed to match the wall and base, the wall leaned in at an angle,  the inside gap was then filled with “GRIPFILL”  and the timber secured with screws to the base plate.  Before securing,  I glued the two faces of the support timber which would face onto the back plate and the base plate.  

Note, when the glue has been placed on the part for gluing I noticed it glazed in places,  this stops contact with the part, Laybond suggest you  move the part roughly over the location of the final resting place to eliminate the glazing or use an old cutting blade to break up the glaze.

    I have been told that some glues can melt the polystyrene located inside the wall panels so care in the choice of glues is necessary.

    The work is now complete,  two tubes were used in this repair, only time will tell if the chosen glue is robust and suitable.  Recent checks are very promising.

    “GRIPFILL 1133” while obtained from my local DIY store can be obtained from SCREWFIX, 0500 414141 or on www.screwfix.com  in it's catalogue.

    Information on its uses and suitability can be obtained from the manufacturers  LAYBOND PRODUCTS Ltd, Riverside, Saltney, Chester CH4 8RS or on www.laybond.co.uk/general.htm

The repair is now 12 years old, 2014, and it still looks good with the glue retaining the back wall firmly. Two bikes are regularly fitted to the back wall bracket during our tours with the Motorhome.

Notes on the use of GRIPFILL

High Performance, Multi-Purpose, Gap-Filling Adhesive

LAYBOND GRIPFILL(tm) is a solvent-borne, filled rubber resin, developed to bond virtually any rigid materials together, regardless of the evenness of the surfaces.

LAYBOND GRIPFILL(tm) is a high strength, one part, gap-filling adhesive specially formulated to bond a large variety of materials, such as plywood, blockwood, chipboard, hardboard, laminated plastics, uPVC (excluding foamed PVC), rigid insulation materials (excluding expanded polystyrene), metal sheeting (including aluminium, steel, galvanised iron, tin plate and non-ferrous metals) to themselves or to brick, stone and breeze block, sand/cement screeds, concrete, plaster, plasterboard and insulation boards.

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