Wanderer Motorhome Page 9

Driving in France?
Then this web site is a must:

email Brian,

Environmentally Safe Toilet Treatment for motorhomes, caravans and boats:

For a Holiday with a difference in a Motorhome, see this link:

Great Ormond Street Hospital
Children's Charity 
Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
Tel: 020 7239 3000 
Click on the link to donate

As author and maintainer of this web site. I do not save, retain, or sell  any email addresses of those who email me. Should you not get a reply from me, please send again, I might have missed it in my spam catcher!

Additions to Motorhome pages:-
1.Fitting New Automatic Water System Pump
2.Winterising the water pump.
3.Water Tank Level Meter-modification to electronic circuit

4.Basin Mixer Taps - tip & how to repair a dripping tap.
5.Extending Fresh Water Drain Tap to Outside

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Our MH has now been sold so this web site will not be updated again

[click above for pictures]

Due to my age, 80 years old, and health reasons we are forced to give up the pleasures of a motorhome,  and has now been sold.

Description of the motorhome can be seen through out the pages of my web site here.

The MH has MOT until MAR 2017 and its mileage is 109224

To Page Links & Contents Index

1. Waste Tank Smells. 2. Washroom odours. 3. Waste Tank Over Flow. 4. Mixer Taps tip & Dripping tap repair. 5. Waste Water Draining from the Kitchen Sink, hints from Steve of www.marcleleisure.co.uk


Remove smells by using either:

This year, 2008, not having acces to my own advice, in central France, I found dropping four 'Milton' tablets in to a wash basin, twice a week eliminated the smells from the waste tank. The smell was eliminated when travelling and when draining. In the past it was neccessary to fit the plugs to all wash basins when travelling to stop the smell being dragged into the interior.

1. A cupful of garden lime and sluice it down into the waste tank.

2. Sluice half a cup of nitrate fertilizer into the waste tank. Obtain nitrate fertilizer from the garden centre.

3. Sluice half a cup of sodium, calcium, or potassium nitrate into the waste tank.  Smell will return when solutions weakened.

4. Hydrogen peroxide [Hair bleach], less corrosive than hypochlorite bleach [Parazone.]

5. Baking powder[ Sodium bicarbonate or any alkaline cleaner-possibly oven cleaner.]

6. Parazone, not too strong. Fill the waste tank up to the sink drain entry, then allow to soak for a day or two. Repeat periodically.

For commercial supplies write to :


Copy of letter to Magazine:


Previous letters have touched on the problem of smells in the Motorhome. None that I can recall have mentioned toilet/washroom smells. Perhaps others have not had our problems, which we experienced in Spain this year.

We are first timers to Motorhome ownership. We have never done any caravaning or owned a Motorhome before.

Toilet smell was becoming an embarrassment, causing me to change the cassette and chemicals every other day. The usual shaking of the cassette with fresh water, after draining was not a solution. Until I noticed some continentals and their methods used.

The solution was to add fresh water, add the fresh chemicals, shake upside down, turn the cassette upside down, flap closed, and leave for a short time upside down. Any leakage when upside down is minimal, a few drops only, any thing larger then your seals need changing.

This was our solution, no matter how hot the weather, our toilet always smelt fresh.

WARNING:  Do NOT shake too vigorously or the magnet float attached to the float will brake loose and be lost the next time you empty the cassette, as in my case.

I have since started to use 'Walex' toilet sachets, 2014, these sachets keep the cassette smelling fresh up to the time when it requires emptying.

Waste Tank Over Flow

On my previous Motorhome the only time we knew when the waste tank overflowed was when a smelly puddle was observed coming from underneath the van.

The overflow pipe was fitted "Correctly" on the side of the tank.  This situation was not satisfactory as it could not be observed.

Our "New" Motorhome has exactly the same fitting, as it came from the same factory.  Even though we have a panel  indicator now, I decided to carry out a similar modification as the previous Motorhome, i.e. an extension pipe to the side of the van so a container could be placed underneath, should I forget a full tank situation.

The modification can be seen in the photo.' I used ordinary garden hose which was conveniently to hand, and secured with cable ties. Where the pipe is attached to the van side, I inserted a right hand bend.

 [Click photo for larger image]
Overflow pipe to side wall.
Note the green waste pipe coming
from the tank to side of the van


Installation Tip:

Due to a leak from the mixer tap over the kitchen unit, causing the water pump to burst periodically, and after futile repairs, I decided to replace the mixer tap assembly.

A one line installation instruction informed; If the water pipes take on a hard impression, soak them in hot water for 10 minutes before installation.

I did not realize the importance of this advice until I tried to push the water pipe onto the pipe input. While pushing, my hand slipped which was supporting the tap knob. My hand pressure pushed the 4 hole base plate up to an angle of 45degrees. Pushing it back down, the base plate snapped. I couldn't believe the 4 hole base plate supporting the centre outlet and two taps could be so fragile.

Approaching the supply dealer, I was told this was a careless installation. A new base plate has been fitted.

These days the Basin Mixer tap assembly is very expensive. At May 2010 the price for the whole assembly cost £68.

Another drip tap repair was neccessary and a kit of parts from Whale was purchased at £18!

Below can be seen how I did the repair job on both taps.

It is possible to do the job without removing the basin assembly as I did. The reason I did, was because the pipes under taps were not long enough for me pull up the assembly and carry out the repair in situ.

The walls are of the thin plywood type. After removal the screws will not suport the basin assembly so I introduced wall plugs to retain the screws.

See how I did it in page 10

Dripping Tap Repair

Whale Mixer taps assembly

The wash basin and taps

Removing the tap handle

Next remove the centre hollow bolt

Pull tap away from centre
push fit assembly and remove

Undo the screws on tap assembly
then pull out the screw center of tap.

Whale kit - repair parts
Replace the washers in the screw centre of tap.
 Note the assembly order in the pictures.

Waste Water Draining from Kitchen Sink

My Original enquiry:

----- Original Message -----

 From: "BRIAN WALTERS" <b.b.walters[at]btinternet.com>

To: "mail[at]marcleleisure.co.uk"


Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 6:23 PM

Subject: Re: Water pump GIRO

 Can you supply a 12 volt water pump as my kitchen sink does not drain very well.?

Regarding my query,  I have seeen a pump called 'GIRO external in line pump' which will fit  my needs.  Do you have a source?

 Best Regards, 


 ----- Original Message -----

 From: <mail[at]marcleleisure.co.uk>

 To: "BRIAN WALTERS" <b.b.walters[at]btinternet.com>

 Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 

 Subject: Re: Water pump GIRO

 Good evening Brian,

 Have you seen the two pumps at the following link (MLP01138 & MLP01139)

 which sound what your looking for


 The delivery cost (what I get charged from my wholesaler) is £5.80

 I hope its of interest. If I can help further, do get in touch.

 Kind regards

Steve Monkley

Marcle Leisure.co.uk

Fax. : +44 (0) 1531 660 462

Tel. : +44 (0) 785 425 6585

 E-mail :  mail[at]marcleleisure.co.uk

Web : www.marcleleisure.co.uk

 Hi Steve,

 Many thanks for your prompt reply, much appreciated.

 I was thinking on the lines of at:


While they look like the Whale in line pumps, these can be run dry without  damage. Whale in line  pumps don't.

Why do I need a pump to run dry?  In my Motorhome, [see www.ourwanderer.org ] the kitchen sink will not drain very well, ( I have replaced the pipe to the tank) The plan is to place a pump in Line with a filter.

 Good morning Brian,


Below I have listed our part No. against our suppliers Part No. so you can clearly compare like for like

MLP01134 13000100 Elegant immersion pump

MLP01135 14000700 VIP immersion pump

MLP01136 14301200 VIP-Plus immersion pump

MLP01137 16307700 GEO-Plus immersion pump

MLP01138 17006300 GEO-Inline outside pump

MLP01139 17207700 GEO-Inline plus outside pump

MLP01140 060501 Air release nozzle for all immersion pumps


The pictures on your link are the same as was supplied to me. As they have listed them as being capable of running dry, I'll add the statement to my pictures.

Why do pumps need to run dry? Some pumps are happy to run dry, like diaphragm pumps, however not all pumps are designed in the same way. Some have shafts rotating in plastic bushes and rely on the water for lubrication and cooling of said bush. As for running dry, well some people are not so mechanically minded and 'may' leave the pump running whilst going to collect more water, where as someone like yourself who is aware of the potential problems would switch it off. For some one kitting out a van for someone they did not know, may opt for a run dry pump.

With regards to your drain problem, I don't think the pump idea is a way to go, especially if its on a kitchen sink, even if a filter was fitted, you'll be cleaning it out all the time, basically constant maintenance.

What I would do is fit a larger bore pipe with a smooth bore, rather than the cheapo corrugated type that is normally used by converters. Go for as large a bore as possible. The limitation will be the inlet to the waste tank.

I used 1.25" domestic plastic tube (the white non flexible stuff). Where it enters the tank I used a hole saw slightly smaller than the tube  and forced it in.

However, what you could do is what tank builders do, and cut a slightly smaller hole in the tank, then mount a short length of tube in a drill (poke a bit of wood in the end with a 6" nail through it to engage in the drill). Then using the drill mounted tube, position in the hole, then with the drill rotating, allow the friction to build up to melt the plastic, when the two components have melted and bonded, stop the drill and allow to cool, perhaps with the aid of a water hose pipe or water in a fairy bottle to , squirt over it. Having carried out that operation you should have a reasonably good joint.

The tank builders do use two materials the same, and carry out the procedure using a bench drill. Personally I'd do it by pushing the tube through a tight hole. If it leaks it won't be a lot (None of mine do) and won't matter, plus you can disassemble if the need arose.

If you have any further questions, do get in touch.


Kind regards

Steve Monkley

Marcle Leisure.co.uk

Fax. : +44 (0) 1531 660 462

Tel. : +44 (0) 785 425 6585

E-mail :  mail[at]marcleleisure.co.uk

Web : www.marcleleisure.co.uk

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